Beaches of South Walton

Grand Bahama Island Print E-mail

Set your clock to island time for a reprieve on this Caribbean isle

[ Written By Bre Edmonds with additional reporting by Lissa Poirot ]

There was no jetway to transport me from the plane to the terminal upon arrival at Grand Bahama Island’s Freeport International Airport. Instead, I descended from the back of the aircraft directly onto the runway and into the Caribbean sun. There wasn’t a hoard of anxious travelers at baggage claim fighting to collect their things; rather a handful of happy-go-lucky tourists patiently awaited their luggage, as if the relaxed aura of the island had already seeped into their blood.

On my cab ride from the airport to my hotel, a thin veil of clouds drifted over the sun, and a soft drizzle splattered the windshield. “Don’t worry about the rain, honey bunch,” my driver assured me. “The sun always comes out.” She was right about the weather, as showers come and go on Grand Bahama as quickly as crabs scurry across the sand.

Here, temperatures average 70 to 75 degrees in the coldest months, so it’s summertime year round, and the living is easy as time seems to slow down, making it perfect for a long-weekend getaway (not to mention it’s a mere two-hour plane trip from Atlanta). I soon found myself enjoying a leisurely pace of life that encouraged conversation over unrushed meals and opportunities to soak in my surroundings. Yes, the easygoing attitude is contagious in this place, where a thriving tourism industry coexists in harmony with historical fishing villages and ecological treasures. Before I knew it, I too, was on “Island Time.

Where To Stay
It may be conveniently located near an array of shops and activities, but Pelican Bay at Lucaya feels like a hidden, romantic oasis in its façade of tall palms and lush foliage. The boutique hotel is at once elegant and rustic with décor that combines earth tones and abstract art in bold, tropical colors for a natural island feel. Guests may stay in one of Pelican Bay’s deluxe hotel rooms, or opt for paradise in a one-bedroom suite with pool or ocean views. Your day can begin with an intimate breakfast right in your suite, or venture down to the Neptune bar for a poolside breakfast. Though the hotel does not have its own beach access, it does provide ferry service to a beach across the bay, and offers three swimming pools for cool days and the ultra trendy Sabor restaurant and lounge for hot nights (www.pelicanbayhotel.com).

Further afield on the west end of the island, about a 45-minute drive from Lucaya, is Old Bahama Bay at Ginn Sur. This intimate resort is made up of a cluster of pastel-colored “cottages” with six luxuriously appointed rooms overlooking the pool or the Atlantic. The hotel is a throwback to resorts of yesteryear, where those with the means chose to hide out in secluded bungalows and be waited on hand and foot. Old Bahama Bay’s stretch of sandy beach is soft, -in-room massages remove any kinks you may have left during your stay, and fine dining at Aqua Lounge provides melt-in-your mouth conch – the island’s specialty. Only 73 rooms are available here, as are 72 boat slips, which brings marine folk and landlubbers together for drinks at the Bonefish Folley’s Bar & Grille or the Straw Bar and Restaurant (www.oldbahamabay.com).

Where To Play
From snorkeling and sailing to golfing and gaming, there’s plenty to do while you’re kickin’ it on Grand Bahama. Certified scuba divers and amateurs alike can unlock an underwater playground with the various dive adventures offered by Unexso. Choose from shark, night, reef, wreck and dolphin dives (www.unexso.com). Bone fishing is another popular pastime in Bahamian waters, and fly fishing guides can lead you through flats teeming with bonefish that average four to six pounds (www.pelicanbaybonefishing.com). But if you’d rather try your luck on the slots than on the seas, pop into the Isle of Capri Casino at Our Lucaya for slot machines, video poker games and table games including black jack, craps and roulette (www.isleofcapricasino.com).

Out Exploring
Wander through Port Lucaya Marketplace, a waterfront complex filled with tropical-colored shops, local artist booths, restaurants and bars. Though a bit on the touristy side, it’s the perfect place to pick up kitschy keepsakes (U.S. currency is accepted and interchangeable with the Bahamian dollar) and is a hotspot for Grand Bahama nightlife after dusk. Catch the cultural show five nights a week at Count Basie Square, featuring local singers, belly dancers, fire artists and more (www.portlucayamarketplace.com).

On the east side of the island, about 25 miles from Freeport, Lucayan National Park is a naturalist’s paradise. Here you’ll find meandering paths under a canopy of tropical pine trees, mangroves, ferns and rare floral species. The 40-acre park is also home to one of the longest-known underwater cave systems in the world, and exploring the caverns offers a cool reprieve. Immerse yourself in this ecological wonderland by taking the Lucayan National Park/Kayak Nature and Cave Tour (www.grandbahamanaturetours.com).

While roaming the park, venture onto the unspoiled shores of Gold Rock Beach. It’s off the beaten path, but the 10-minute walk along an unmarked trail near the main entrance to the National Park is well worth it. A tangle of pines gives way to a picturesque private beach with stark-white sand and crystal-clear waters. It was on these storied shores where the likes of Jack Sparrow roamed during the filming of Disney’s “Pirates of the Caribbean” sequels; enter the beach via a second access road just past the walking path to see a “shipwreck” from the movie set.

Hungry Yet?
Savor the vibe and flavor of the tropics at Pelican Bay’s Sabor restaurant & bar, an intimate poolside lounge overlooking the Port Lucaya marina. A fusion menu features gourmet fare like cognac-infused lobster bisque and cilantro-chili-spiced Mahi Mahi with lemon-walnut vinaigrette. It’s casual by day, but when the sun goes down, Sabor morphs into a trendy nightspot reminiscent of cosmopolitan cities, with energetic lighting, exotic music, chic cocktails and classy clientele (www.sabor-bahamas.com).

Open for evenings and Sunday brunch, Aqua Lounge at Old Bahama Bay at Ginn Sur is renowned on the island for its upscale dining. The intimate dining room features oversized white leather chairs, various shades of aqua and windows overlooking the marina, perfectly aimed to catch the sunset. Order the house specialty: a Caesar salad prepared fresh and table side. From there, select delicious and fresh seafood, including its flaky and melt-in-your-mouth grouper, or consider the macadamia nut-encrusted rack of lamb with a hint of mustard, and finish it off with a Bahamian treat: Guavaduff, a sweet, bread-like dessert made with, what else, guava.

Postcard-Perfect Moment:
Unexso’s Dolphin Experience
There’s something magical about glimpsing dolphins gliding through the sea, but playing in the water along with them is altogether enchanting. Unlike a chance dolphin cruise, Unexso’s Dolphin Experience guarantees an encounter with these fun-loving marine mammals in the protected and natural environment of the Dolphin Experience Lagoon. What began when director and former actor Ron Howard donated five dolphins from the film “Cocoon” to Unexso has grown to 14 fun-loving and friendly dolphins eager to swim beside you and, just like happy puppies, quick to turn on their backs if it means they’ll get a nice belly rub. Open swim opportunities include a maximum five people to two dolphins, with the dolphins playfully pushing you back to the surface when you dive below. At the command of a trainer, the dolphins show off a bit, twirling through the water and leaping into the air. When it was time to say goodbye, the dolphins gave hugs and kisses — while a member of the crew snapped pictures for posterity (and purchase) before sending me on my way. pn

 
 

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