When you tell friends that you’ve been to Paris, invariably they will ask, “Did you stay on the Right Bank or Left Bank?” After a recent trip my answer is a resounding, “Both!” My friend and I stayed three nights on the Right Bank and three nights on the Left Bank. You not only get a more diversified examination of Paris, but the opportunity to experience distinctly different hotels and their surroundings is worthwhile. The hotels we visited all epitomize the essence of their location – the elegant luxury of the Plaza Athénée is a reflection of its sophisticated Right Bank location on the tres haute couture street of the world; the artistic refinement of the Hotel Lutetia expresses the creative heart of St. Germain-des-Prés; and the bohemian luxe and secretive exclusivity of L’Hotel near Ecole des Beaux Arts makes you feel as though you’ve been placed upon the “A” list of insiders.

The Right Bank – Timeless Elegance at the Plaza Athénée
There is no better expression of the timeless elegance of the Right Bank than the Hotel Plaza Athénée. Established in 1911, this hotel and its stellar reputation drew fashion designer Christian Dior to the Avenue de la Montaigne in 1946. Monsieur Dior used the Plaza Athénée as the backdrop for fashion shoots and as the inspiration for many of his designs and collections. He chose the Plaza for his most important business events and meetings, and relied upon it as his personal, private respite. In fact, my recent experience leads me to concur with Monsieur Dior.

As a guest of the Hotel Plaza Athénée, you are accorded with unparalleled personal service. From the white-gloved attendant who spins the revolving lobby door to the concierge who makes anything appear in mere minutes, your life at the Plaza Athénée is transformed into a state of elegant ease.

Every room at the Plaza Athénée offers a retreat into luxury and calm. How do you choose between a room with a view of the tree-lined Avenue and the Eiffel Tower, or a room that overlooks the peaceful interior courtyard and its walls of deep green ivy and bright red geraniums? Our room faced the courtyard, and its quiet tranquility was interrupted only by the cheerful chirpings of the birds who shared this exclusive address!

The newest suites at the Plaza Athénée transport you to what was previously only possible in your imagination. Two Eiffel Tower suites capture a view of this classic symbol of romance in large, oversized windows so perfectly that you feel as if it was your own personal tower. Staring at the Eiffel Tower enveloped by pearl grey and rich raspberry tones of luxurious fabrics, you will know you are in one of the most iconic, extraordinary destinations.

Whether a hotel guest or staying elsewhere in Paris, you must experience the Plaza Athénée. If breakfast is, indeed, the most important meal of the day, then it might be equally essential to start your morning at the Restaurant Alain Ducasse, where I suggest you allow plenty of time to deeply savor your experience at this 3-Michelin star restaurant. The room is gorgeously decorated in Louis XV style, with a modern twist found in the palette of orange, taupe and white. Huge chandeliers extend their glittering beauty further with hundreds of individual crystals hanging from the ceiling. Not one, but two world-renowned pastry chefs work behind the scenes to create a cavalcade of French pastries that are whisked to your table. The line-up includes croissants, chocolatines (milk chocolate and hazelnut chip pastry), tartes au sucre (Belgian brown sugar and sour cream tart), Kughelof (brioche scented with lemon and orange blossom), feuilletes framboise (puff pastry crescent filled with raspberry jam) and many more! If the pastries alone aren’t sweet enough, you may add a dab of the house special chocolate and hazelnut spread. In addition to American and Continental breakfasts, there is the chef’s special “oeuf du jour.” We had two soft-boiled eggs topped with smoked salmon, set on a bed of softly wilted spinach leaves, and ringed with a nut-browned butter emulsion. Extraordinaire!

For a haven of intense luxury, visit the new Dior Institute at the Plaza Athénée – the first of its kind in France. Because of the intimate historical relationship between the two houses it was only natural that they bound together to create the most Parisian of all beauty institutes. From the main level of the hotel you will descend the historical staircase into a broad-vaulted gallery, with a central pool and arched arcades leading to private treatment rooms. You can choose from an extensive menu of treatments that have been custom-designed to revive the youthful beauty of your face and body.

Of course, if you plan to swing by Plaza Athénée later in the day, plenty of fabulous experiences await as well. Enjoy cocktails from head bartender Thierry Hernandez, the creative genius behind the innovative concoctions that fortify the reputation of this hotel bar. The “classic” cocktail is their Rose Royale, a blend of Champagne and crushed raspberry that is as delicious as it is beautiful. Venture to the creative edge and try the “Plaza Colada” – a sushi cocktail that you eat and drink! Six melt-in-the-mouth marshmallows are infused with rum, pineapple juice and coconut milk and topped with wafer-thin slices of pineapple. Use chopsticks to dip the morsels in piña colada syrup and roll them in crisp coconut. Intense flavors and a surprising combination of soft and crisp textures will surprise your taste buds. For more ways to please your palate, be sure to have lunch or dinner at Le Relais Plaza, which has been one of the most popular Parisian bistros since 1936. With its art deco environment and reputation as a favorite haunt for celebrities, Le Relais combines an air of excitement with a relaxed, modern mood.

Left Bank – Steeped in Artistic History at Hotel Lutetia
Sitting in the lobby of the Hotel Lutetia, with its black-and-white tile floor and an art collection spanning a century, the artistic and literary life of Paris comes alive. Indeed, this hotel is famous for being a second home to artists and writers such as Matisse, Picasso, André Gide, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and many more. Today, it remains a favorite place for actors, designers and artists to stay and to gather. Both elegant and warm, it is a welcoming place in the heart of the fashionable St. Germain-des-Prés.

The Lutetia was built in 1910 and was the first Art Deco building of stature in Paris. Founded by the creator of the nearby department store Bon Marché (also considered the first of its kind in its day), Hotel Lutetia has always been on the artistic forefront of Paris. Belle Époque and Art Nouveau styles meet Art Deco throughout the hotel – from the famous sculpted façade to the Lalique crystal chandeliers in the ballroom to the historically protected, floral designed stained glass windows in the stairways. From the original wrought ironwork on banisters and balconies, to the vast collection of original furniture and fixtures, the Hotel is a living example of Parisian art and design through the last century.

The expansive Bar Lutetia offers a reassuring hum of activity in a relaxed and sophisticated setting just off the lobby. Small groups cluster in private conversations, pulling their deep red velvet semicircular chairs together. Jazz piano provides a musical backdrop to a scene that could just as easily come from 1939 as from 2009.

Our room, a wonderfully spacious Junior Suite, was one of 230 rooms and suites, each decorated with the modern flair of Hotel Lutetia. Airy and bright, it is also completely state-of-the-art with wireless technology, beautiful bathroom amenities, and a small balcony that provides a 180-degree view of the classic Boulevard Raspail.

We toured a few of the themed suites, including the Parisienne, home of Monsieur Pierre Berge, business manager and friend to Yves St. Laurent. When Monsieur Berge lived in the hotel, he had a living room, bedroom and small dining room with a galley kitchen. Today, the living room and bedroom are part of the gracious suite, decorated in rich green hues and wood paneling. The former dining room has been turned into an optional, adjoining second bedroom.

Breakfast at Hotel Lutetia is offered in a variety of ways, but I recommend the generous breakfast buffet. For midday dining, consider the local favorite and long-time Paris tradition, the Brasserie Lutetia. Known especially for its seafood, this lively brasserie is an energetic, bustling place to enjoy great food and watch Left Bank regulars come and go.

After a stay in the Hotel Lutetia, it’s easy to understand why generations return to the hotel. The head concierge has been with the hotel for 38 years, and is just one of many loyal staff members who make guests feel at home. The hotel strikes that elusive balance between warmth and sophistication, relaxation and elegance. With its prime location in the heart of the artistic Left Bank, it’s a great choice for a home base on this side of Paris.

Hidden Away in L’Hotel on the Left Bank
In a part of the Left Bank where the streets narrow and twist and turn, you’ll find L’Hotel tucked among small galleries on the Rue des Beaux Arts. A tiny jewel box full of discoveries, this hotel has been rated one of the most romantic hotels in the world. A compact lobby leads into the dramatic, circular atrium rising six stories. The decadent, Jacques Garcia design truly begins to reveal itself when you enter the tiny, perfect bar with several alcoves furnished in rich velveteen, sumptuous cushions and soft lighting. Venture further into Le Restaurant, where Chef Philippe Bélissent serves superb French cuisine in a setting of quintessential Bohemian luxury.

While being escorted to our room, the Oscar Wilde Suite, we learned the author had lived in the hotel until his death in 1900. Inspired by his dining room in London, the suite is decorated with deep wood paneling and emerald green wallpaper featuring gold peacocks strutting, preening and kissing. There are several framed notes, letters, bills and photographs – all fascinating ephemera from his life. The suite also came with a gorgeous garden-filled terrace and lovely wrought iron furniture. Perfect for a Parisian terrace picnic!

Another celebrity suite is named the “Mistinguett” after the popular French entertainer known for her risqué routines in the famous Parisian dance halls. The suite is furnished with her amazing mirrored Art Deco furniture. The largest suite in L’Hotel, and a favorite of Johnny Depp, Hugh Laurie, Cameron Diaz and many more, is called the “Cardinal.” The smallest room is called the “Napoleon.”

Throughout the hotel, walls are covered in heavy silks or hand-painted in jewel tones and gold. The bathrooms are invitingly decadent and appointed with astounding old fixtures, rich fabrics, wood paneling and more. And then there is the piece de resistance, reached by a stone stairwell that curls down to the vaulted stone cellars, where a romantic, candlelit small pool and steam room await those who make a private reservation. Sitting in your personal spa, in the 17th-century foundation of this quietly historic hotel, you realize that luxury comes in all sizes. At L’Hotel, luxury is tiny, perfect and exclusive.

Links for more information
Plaza Athénée
Hotel Lutetia
L’Hotel