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Marietta Offers Exotic Fare,
Delectable Shops,
and a Taste of History
By Kathy Witt
 Marietta is graced with a tidy square trimmed in black wrought iron, five National Register Historic Districts, a dramatic mountain backdrop, and just enough mileage between it and Atlanta to give it the spirit of a cosseted and well-heeled small town with the vibrancy of an urban environment. "Historic" is perhaps the best way to characterize this pocket-sized parcel, the county seat of Cobb County located just 18 miles northwest of Metro Atlanta. With a population of approximately 60,000 in a county of 668,057, Marietta is a community of green spaces and notable places, Victorian homes and historic venues, and a spirited square that is nothing short of uptown. There are boutiques filled with the timeless to the trendy in fashions, accessories and gifts; restaurants with an international dash that dish up edibles both foreign and familiar; antique shops crowded with treasures from the simple to the sublime; museums that are a passport to Marietta's storied past; and an intimate theater that offers a dynamic lineup of productions year-round.
Anchoring it all is Glover Park, a gem that sparkles as the centerpiece of Antebellum Square, the heart and soul of the community and a picturesque tableau with its statues, fountain, florals, liberty bell and bandstand. It is abuzz with activity throughout the year with concerts, musical and Broadway-style theater, events, picnic suppers and shopping.
The Times They Are A-Changin'
Not long ago, Marietta's square consisted of a few shops and restaurants, two annual events and no museums. When the Welcome Center opened in 1984, this burg that once bustled as a resort town in the early 1800s was suddenly shaken from its decades-long malaise.
"There have been huge changes in the past 20 years," said Theresa Jenkins, executive director of the Marietta Welcome Center & Visitors Bureau. "The square has evolved to include more than 45 specialty retail shops, several museums, a busy restaurant scene and more than 10 annual major events."
David Reardon, whose restaurant Shillings on the Square has been a mainstay of the historic downtown area since 1978, describes the square as lively, charming and eclectic. "In the last 20 years," he said, "we've gone from three or four restaurants to 25."
Within 2 miles of the downtown area are the Marietta National Cemetery, the Confederate Cemetery and Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park. The Big Chicken, a beloved local landmark, has greeted people to Marietta for decades. Dan Cox, a resident of Marietta for 66 years and founder of the Marietta Museum of History, remembers when the square was the "center of the universe."
"Everything we needed was on the Square, or just off: hospitals, doctors, lawyers, grocery stores, mom-and-pop operations, bookstores, three movie theaters. You name it, it was right there on the square," Cox said.
From its resort beginnings (when Marietta was an escape from the heat and malaria of the South, as well as from the cold of the North) to its protracted recovery after the Civil War, on to its streetcar days when trolley service ran between Atlanta and Marietta, to its heyday during World War II when the town was still rural enough to have cows running through the streets and then, finally, to its period of decline and subsequent rebirth, Marietta has remained a tight-knit community.
Each year, 60,000 visitors enter the Marietta Welcome Center & Visitors Bureau, a red brick building with its distinctive Dutch gables. Active, historic, yet forward thinking, the square, which touts nearly one million or more visitors annually, is the perfect home for the museums on and around it, for the old Strand Theatre [see Strand article on page 124], and for the abundance of antiques and specialty shops.
Harry DuPre, co-owner of DuPre's Antiques & Interiors, said, "Over the years, the square has gone from the center of commerce through the 1950s, then a declining period through the 1980s, and now a vibrant 'place to be' for many."
Jenkins believes that it is Marietta's sharply defined downtown and deep sense of community that sets it apart from other suburban communities. "When people want to come together to celebrate or to mourn, as they did after 9/11, they gravitate to the square," she said. "On the Fourth On the Square, everyone in Marietta comes to the square to celebrate. Also, with the museums, art galleries and theater, it is the center for the arts in Cobb County."
Indeed, Marietta's top attractions are several of its arts and cultural institutions. The Theatre in the Square, the Marietta Gone with the Wind Museum: Scarlett on the Square, the Marietta-Cobb Museum of Art and the Marietta History Museum rank among the most popular stops. New attractions are planned, including the reopening of the historic Strand Theatre and the Aviation Museum that will be located a mile south of the square.
Trendy, trippy, spicy, zippy - the historic Marietta square is a hotbed of hip, happening boutiques, galleries and restaurants. There are enough shopping options that you really can do it 'til you drop, and dining is nothing less than an around-the-world gastronomical escapade.
 Confessions of a ShopaholicIn a museum town like Marietta, it makes sense that an antique shop known for its 19th- and 20th-century furniture and fine arts would also call to mind a museum. This is the case at Antiques on the Square, an award-winning store that operates from an 1890s' building that formerly housed a drugstore. "It's a guy's shop in many respects," said Jim Kumpe, who hung out his shingle 18 years ago. There are sporting goods, wooden hand tools, military artifacts, collectibles ("that means it's over 50 years old") and mechanicals (typewriters, telephones, cameras) in every case and crevice in the place. 146 South Park Square, 770-429-0434
Tucked into the old Pylant-McPherson Sinclair Service Station, circa 1910, is Johnny Fulmer's Church Street Market, a country mercantile brimming with native Georgia gourmet food products (like Georgia Vidalia Onion Creamy Cucumber Salad Dressing), herb baskets, fresh-cut garden flowers and heirloom vegetable and flower seeds. Known as much for its pleasing fragrance as its down-home hospitality, the shop with the white picket fences in the parking lot encourages customers to taste, smell and browse among its home and kitchen accessories, yard art, birdhouses and willow furniture. 131 Church St., 770-499-9393, www.churchstreetmarket.com
When Stacy Smith took notice of the hustle and bustle on the square, she decided she wanted to be part of it. So, in February, she flung open the doors of Doodlebugz in the Old Coggins Building to a world where "pop art meets folk art." She sells handcrafted jewelry by Metal Morphsis, sweetly scented bath products from Lollia, timeless decorative art tiles and plaques by Sid Dickens, among other finds. 15 West Park Square, 770-792-6734, www.doodlebugz.us
Marietta's largest antique mall, DuPre's Antiques & Interiors, family-owned by brother-and-sister team Harry and Ruth DuPre, has been in its present location since 1877. Way back then, DuPre's was a general store that dealt with the farm trade and did double-duty as an unofficial post office where friends could leave parcels and messages for the farmers. Today, DuPre's is a treasure trove of furniture, clocks, glassware, porcelain/china, silver/metals, jewelry, textiles and more. 17 Whitlock Ave., 770-428-2667, www.dupresai.com
Stuffed with Bennington Pottery, Yankee Candles and candle accessories, a hodgepodge of potpourri, baskets and buckets, lamps and lighting, cookbooks, cookie cutters, scented soaps, natty napery, handmade stationery, gourmet foods and seasonal and holiday gift baskets is The Keeping Room, a boutique that takes its commodity cues from the country-inspired lifestyle. Owner Susie Fulmer said it fits perfectly with the flair of the square. "It's historic, friendly and active the best environment for our type of products." 77 Church St., 770-499-9577, www.thekeepingroom.net
Remember Joanie Hansen's Barkery from television's award-winning family drama "Providence?" The Georgia version with decidedly Southern pizzazz is Kreature Komforts, a gourmet pet bakery and gift shop whose specialty is all-natural, preservative-free treats, as well as treats for a variety of canine and feline diet considerations. The shop stocks artist-designed collars, leads, beds, clothing and toys and has an onsite day spa for personalized pet pampering. 770-428-8616, 31 Mill St., Suite 300, www.kreaturekomfortsofmariettainc.com
Trendy, tres chic, the first and the final word in what to wear - that's L. Michelle, a lady's boutique that is all about outfitting the fashionable femme with Paige Denim, Parameter, Chick by Nikki Hilton, RJean Blouse, Beau Bois, Ella Moss, Vera Bradley and Hobo International. In clothing, handbags, jewelry, bath and beauty products, L. Michelle is about the names that are now. 35 North Park Square, 770-422-4255, www.lmichelleinc.com
Timeless is the buzzword at Pendleton, a store famous for its woolen products. Window shoppers, drawn to the glass storefront beneath the sharp blue awning, will soon find themselves inside the store to touch the lambs wool throws, blankets from the personalized, signature and Native American series, and wool and silk jackets for men and women that can only be described as sleek, supple and stylish, not to mention the full line of Brighton leather and fine accessories. 128 South Park Square, 678-354-0338, www.pendleton-usa.com
Around the World in 10 Meals
From a small town in Victoria, Australia, to the cosmopolitan atmosphere of the square, childhood mates Mark Allen and Neville Steel bring the savory meat pies of their beloved homeland to Aussie expatriates and local gourmands alike at the Australian Bakery Cafe. The mouth-wateringly pungent aromas of steak and onion, thyme and tangy sausage waft about, along with the more delicate but equally satisfying scents of fresh country breads, steamed puddings and lamingtons, a light sponge cake dipped in chocolate and covered in finely shredded coconut. 48 South Park Square, 678-797-6222, www.australianbakery.com
The place to have your baklava and eat it, too, while watching belly dancing no less, is Efe's Mediterranean Vegetarian Turkish Cuisine. The ambience that owner Hakan Senkal has created is casually romantic with a velvet touch, dimly lit and agreeably fit for a culinary romp to Greece, Morocco and Turkey. Inquisitive palates, from the timid to the intrepid, will find familiar Mediterranean dishes like hummus, tabouli and shish kabobs to the more exotic izmir kofte (oven-baked meatballs), karisik dolmas (seasonal stuffed veggies), and Senkal's signature special, beyti kebab (spicy Turkish kebab wrapped in lavash bread and served with garlic yogurt and tomato sauce on top). 113 North Park Square, 770-419-0159, www.efesrestaurant.com
Hidden away beyond the railroad tracks and a mosaic walkway, Le Cafe Crepe simply sighs, "yum" - or rather, "delicieux." The crepes are light; the fillings are just that, but not overly so. A petite restaurant with high antique ceilings, it has a touch of bohemia, recalling the bistros of Paris with its unstudied charm, flaming candles and abstract paintings. Owner Alfred Carraz goes gourmet on Saturday nights with a by-reservation-only four-course French dinner that might include scallops sauteed with tarragon, Dijon mustard and tomatoes; seasonal salad; rack of lamb with mustard sauce; and puff pastry with chocolate mousse and sauces. 90 Marietta Station Walk, 770-426-8003, www.lecafecrepe.com
Howard Wolfson and Kellie and David Contreras have seen more and more restaurants join them on the square over the last five years. The owners of the chummy Marietta Pizza Company attribute the square's lure to its urban feel in the midst of the suburbs, a surprising mix that always charms visitors. The signature dishes are the specialty pizzas - what local Dan Cox calls "the closest thing to New York pizza" he's ever eaten. 3 Whitlock Ave., 770-419-0900, www.mariettapizza.com
David Reardon, owner of Shillings on the Square says the thing that continually delights his diners (besides the Reuben sandwich and wasabi crusted tuna) is that there are two distinct dining atmospheres and experiences beneath and above the striped awnings of this historic circa 1900 building that once knew life as a hardware store. A street level pub bubbles over with fun and, upstairs, the service and the scenery are elevated to white tablecloths, candles and a scenic view of the square. 19 North Park Square, 770-428-9520, www.shillingsonthesquare.com
 When Theatre in the Square has a show, Simpatico has a full house. This cozy neighborhood bistro, that owners Ben and Shana Lyman brag knows no gastronomical boundaries, serves an eclectic menu, heavy on the pasta (spicy sausage and Pappardelle, chicken pesto pasta, lobster raviolis) that lends itself perfectly to an evening of dinner and theater. Signature dishes include bacon-wrapped shrimp over saffron risotto and spring roll appetizers, and the daily favorite is whatever the bistro special happens to be that day. 23 North Park Square, 770-792-9995, www.willieraes.com/simpatico.htm Tucked right next door to Simpatico is the Lymans' other eatery Willie Rae's. The restaurants share space in the old Dunaway Drugstore, and Ben Lyman can take inquiring minds back to 1941 when Willie Rae's was the Dixie Cafe. These days, the menu is a celebration of Lowcountry cuisine (seafood gumbo, oysters on the half shell, po' boys, jambalaya) in kickback digs infused with folk art. 25 North Park Square, 770-792-9995, www.willieraes.com
Duck into Slovakia Restaurant for Stefan and Ivana Bencik's signature Slovakia Plate with dumplings and cabbage. This is fine dining amidst dark wood, dressed tables and dim lighting, all charmingly at home in the old Legion Theatre and A&P store that were the community cultural focal points in the 1940s and '50s. The Benciks say that some of their patrons are surprised to find unique and authentic European dishes in North Georgia, but the svieckova, goulash and fasirka soon become old favorites. Dinner theater is offered each month, with murder (most foul and funny) served up with a three-course dinner. 164 Roswell St., 770-792-4443, www.slovakiarestaurant.com
Diane Boyles and her husband Richard have had Sweetreats for nearly four years and still happily stand by their guarantee. "It's the best ice cream you'll ever taste or your money back," Diane said, adding, "And no one has ever asked for their money back." Their recipe for success? Vanilla or chocolate ice cream or yogurt with three fresh ingredients (fruit, nuts, chocolates, candies, flavorings and more) added and then crushed and blended until the mixture rolls out creamy smooth and as good as homemade and served in handmade waffle cones. 134 South Park Square, 770-528-9090
The theme is deliciously obvious at Thaicoon & Sushi Bar. Owners Sam Mekpongsalorn and Oui Chitphmai have created an extensive Thai menu where texture, flavor and color balance harmoniously and are plated inventively with understated flair. Entr?es include spicy basil sauteed chicken; meat with fresh ginger; stir-fried meat with veggies and spicy chili paste; sauteed meat with garlic and black peppers in sherry wine. 34 Mill St., 678-766-0641, www.thaicoonsushi.com
Now that your taste buds are tingling, it's time to head over to the Marietta Wine Market. This wine lover's paradise that just opened in May wants to dispel the notion that wine shops are stuffy and intimidating where visitors wax esoteric about the nuance of bouquet. Rather, they want to be seen as a homey haven for all students and lovers of the grape. Having their dog Bentley acting as the official greeter doesn't hurt either. "We want our customers to feel like they're visiting friends when they come into our store, like guests in our home," said Karen Heard, who co-owns the shop with her husband Randall. The shop offers twice-weekly wine tastings and stocks more than 200 different wines from around the world. Affordability and value are emphasized, with most wines in the $10 to $35 per bottle price range. Filling out the shelves are gourmet foods, wine accessories, candles, Riedel stemless wine glasses, specialty gift baskets and the works of local artists. 18 Powder Springs St., 770-919-1574, www.mariettawinemarket.com
That's Entertainment!
It is fitting that, in the midst of nationally recognized historic neighborhoods, antebellum homes and Civil War cemeteries, four museums and a thriving theater make their home on or near the square.
Next door to the Welcome Center is the circa 1855 Kennesaw House, a former hotel where Andrew's Raiders slept the night before the "Great Locomotive Chase," and then, in 1863, a Confederate hospital, which now houses the Marietta Museum of History. The three galleries (General History, Homelife and Civil War) narrate the story of Marietta and Northwest Georgia from the days of the Native Americans who inhabited this area before 1838, through the Gold Rush era, critical inventions and U.S. wars to present day. One Depot St., Suite 200, 770-528-0431, www.mariettahistory.org
The historic Thomas Warehouse building, circa 1880s, is adjacent, home to the Marietta Gone With The Wind Museum: Scarlett on the Square with the privately owned collection of Dr. Christopher Sullivan of Akron, Ohio. Costumes and jewelry, signed first editions and contracts, movie props and scripts, scene drawings, posters, photographs and dolls - the collection is a time capsule of the life and times of Margaret Mitchell, her seminal novel and the filming of one of the most popular and beloved movies ever made. Be sure not to miss the Bengaline gown worn by Vivien Leigh as Scarlett and an exhibit dedicated to the African-American members of the cast, including a letter Hattie McDaniel wrote in which she discusses her role of Mammy. 18 Whitlock Ave., 770-794-5576, www.city.marietta.ga.us/GoneWind/main.htm
Just a block off the square is the circa 1845 Root House Museum, that offers a peek into the middle-class home life of William Root, the town's first pharmacist and his family. Daryl Barksdale, executive director of Cobb Landmarks and Historical Society, says that the top three exhibits here are the house ("the whole museum is an exhibit"), the detached kitchen and the garden. "The garden features heirloom plants including herbs that Mr. Root sold in his pharmacy on Marietta Square." An interesting feature of this museum is that tours are unscripted, so each docent gives a different tour. Corner of Polk St. and the 120 Loop, 770-426-4982, www.cobblandmarks.com/roothouse.htm
Housed in the columned 1909 post office one block south of the square, the Marietta/Cobb County Museum of Art features significant traveling shows, which change about every three months, plus its own substantial art collection that focuses on 19th- and 20th-century art. Director Patricia Duggan says the museum's "Metro Montage," a juried exhibition of local artists in its sixth year, could be a metaphor for the museum whose top exhibitions also include "Windblown," "American Motorcycle Fine Art" and "The American Quilt." 30 Atlanta St., 770-528-1444, www.mariettacobbartmuseum.org.
Year-round performances are the hallmark of the award-winning Theatre in the Square - as charmingly Southern as space permits in its historic brick digs in a former cotton warehouse and edged with a black wrought-iron entrance gate and a cobblestone alley. The theater, an intimate 225-seat facility featuring Broadway-caliber productions, has a highly-regarded reputation for "flash and sass, glitz and grit and just plain heart-tugging, aisle-rolling, mind-expanding great theater." 11 Whitlock Ave., 770-422-8369, www.theatreinthesquare.com
All photos except Simpatico courtesy of the Marietta Welcome & Tourist Board.
For More Information
Cobb County
One Galleria Pkwy.
Suite 1A2A
Atlanta, GA 30339
800-451-3480
Eat on the Square
125 Church St.
Suite 110
770-874-2335
Marietta Welcome Center &
Visitors Bureau
4 Depot St.
770-429-1115
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