Going Organic

Bounty That's Better

By Katie Kelly Bell

    Suwanee resident Pat McGuire has struggled with the ramifications of ulcerative colitis (inflammation and ulcers) for many years. After a series of eight surgeries (one involving an emergency procedure to remove his diseased colon), McGuire decided to take matters into his own hands by following a completely organic diet.
    “I really had nothing to lose and a lot to gain,” he explained. “Ironically, I had always viewed those who consumed organic [foods] as granola-eating, long-haired freaks who didn’t know any better. I quickly learned that organic really means less is more; less intervention from synthetic materials means more benefit for people eating organic foods,” he said.
     Almost one full organic year later, McGuire has good news to report. “Since I started consuming organic foods, my energy level has significantly improved, I have lost about 15 pounds and have reduced my waist size by about 3 inches. I also sleep better and have noticed improvement in memory,”
he observed.

What is Organic?

    Many products are labeled “natural,” but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are also organic. Organic products marketed in the United States are regulated by the National Organic Standards developed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). To obtain organic certification, growers must conform to these standards and be certified by a private or state agency authorized by the USDA. In Georgia, organic growers must also register with the Georgia Department of Agriculture.
     So how is organic farming any different than conventional farming? For starters, growers are prohibited from using genetically modified organisms (GMOs), sewage sludge and ionizing radiation (irradiation), as well as chemicals such as pesticides, fertilizers, lasting insecticides, herbicides and fungicides. Additionally, organic farmland is only considered eligible for certification if no synthetic chemicals have been used on the land for three years prior.
     Speculation about the possible carcinogens found in fertilizers and pesticides is primarily anecdotal. “The health effects are not quantified, yet a lot of this is intuitive; people can believe it or not believe it,” said Barbara Petit, a local caterer and president of the board of Georgia Organic. “Many conventional farmers won’t even serve what they grow on their own tables, eating instead from their own organic gardens.”

It's A Matter of Taste

    Although McGuire pursued an organic diet because of health reasons, many self-described foodies and culinary professionals consume organic food as a matter of taste. “The whole reason I got involved in the first place was taste,” Petit explained. “I was tired of finding produce of very low quality. Most produce has been cultivated to endure transportation, upward of 1,500 to 1,600 miles.”
Shortly thereafter, Petit realized the health benefits of dining organic. “I’m talking about minimizing synthetic input to the soil in terms of pesticides and fertilizers.” Those chemicals are really just absorbed by the plants, and consequently into the fruits, grains and vegetables we eat.
     Local farmers have the extra advantage of picking and selling the same day, which translates into taste and freshness for the consumer. Petit has high hopes for the future of more organic markets here in Atlanta. “We’d like to develop one within the next five years. Every day I see more people demanding more local produce once they find how good it is and how much better it is.”
     Rest assured organic produce cannot be forced into ripening inside a glass hothouse or a truck headed to the supermarket. Given the strict indentures on organic farmers for use of synthetics and fertilizers, it is a good bet that the organic produce you see at the store is in season and at the peak of ripeness for that time of year. Don’t expect to see organic blueberries in October. However, when you do see them, you’ll know they are ready for eating. Local area chefs, the arbiters of taste, agree. They also agree that prices for organic food are higher. Pat McGuire concurred, “I have found that, on average, buying organic costs about 35 to 40 percent more; it does make a dent in the family budget.”
     Michael Tuohy, owner and executive chef of Woodfire Grill and a vigorous advocate of organic farming, believes that the price is well worth it. “The distribution system is such that it works against freshness; food ends up being stored in a series of several coolers. With organic, that’s where the quality factor comes in. When I get produce straight out of the ground, it is so much better. I’m willing to pay a premium for that,” he said.
     Gerry Klaskala, executive chef at Aria explained, “We buy everything we possibly can from organic farmers. It’s a better value with freshness and quality. Lettuce that was picked yesterday arrives in my kitchen and there isn’t one leaf I need to throw away; there is no trim and waste, so you use it all.”
     Scott Crawford, executive chef of Food 101 and a member of the local Whole Foods advisory board, concurred, “Conventional food has been engineered over time and the flavor isn’t there any more … Organic has flavor; I’m a firm believer it’s worth the price.”

Sustaining The Community

    Local is where it’s at. Becoming involved in Community Supported Agriculture, CSA for short, offers the most direct contact with local purveyors. “CSAs allow those interested in local organic foods to align themselves with a specific grower by signing up for a season’s worth of produce, delivered weekly and parceled out among the members,” Petit explained. The average cost typically runs $25 to $30 a week. Not only are customers receiving the freshest bounty, they are also helping build what so many organic growers refer to as sustainability.
     Cheryl Galway, the regional marketing director at Whole Foods Market, explained, “Sustainability encourages support of the land, the community and the population. It keeps our watershed from persistent pesticide use, which can contaminate the soil and the water.” Plus, it keeps the family farm tradition alive, she added.
    “I’m more conscious of how I’m impacting things locally,” Crawford explained. “It makes a difference when we buy from Georgia farmers and encourage them to keep growing.” Making a difference in your health and in the community is what’s makes organic so sensible.
     McGuire’s own experience is proof positive. “At the end of the day, eating organic has greatly improved my health,” he said. “It is more than a change in diet, it is a change in lifestyle and attitude. I really feel that I have purged my system of harmful, manmade substances, thus leaving me feeling more energetic, less allergic, and just feeling better!”

For more information visit www.localharvest.org