By Peggy Sijswerda   

    Itineraries are fine, but as travelers, we often discover the most memorable moments are those that take us by surprise. Having visited Europe with our children several times over the past two decades, my husband Peter and I have learned to be alert for serendipitous opportunities. On a recent trip to London, we practically stumbled into Queen Elizabeth — and to think we almost missed our amazing encounter by taking a nap.
     After a long overnight flight that was short on comfort, Peter, Ross, our 9-year-old, and I landed in Heathrow and boarded the “Tube,” emerging 30 minutes later on the streets of Central London. A doorman with a black top hat and a wide grin welcomed us to our hotel, the Athenaeum, an elegant property near Green Park, which offers apartments for families who want to enjoy the comforts of home while exploring London.

    Peter and I unpacked our bags and looked longingly at the king-sized bed with its feathery comforter, yet we knew a morning nap wouldn’t help us adjust to London time. Instead we splashed water on our faces and, with Ross in tow, ventured through Green Park to Buckingham Palace, hoping to see the Changing of the Guards. At the palace, we found crowds milling about and well-dressed ladies and gentlemen gathered inside a roped-off area for a ceremony while a nearby marching band tuned their instruments.
     A policeman strolled past, and Peter asked what was up. “It’s the Opening of Parliament, mate,” he answered.
     Soon, teams of horses appeared pulling ornate carriages inside of which sat VIPs. One carriage, however, was empty except for a glittering jeweled crown. Suddenly, trumpets sounded from the palace yard, and Queen Elizabeth and her husband Prince Philip passed by in their gilded carriage. With crowds swarming all around us, we barely glimpsed the royal couple, but Ross was thrilled nevertheless.
     An hour or so later, after watching soldiers fire cannons in Green Park, the three of us were walking through nearby St. James Park
when we heard the rumbling of horses’ feet and carriage wheels. The Queen and her entourage were returning from Parliament to Buckingham Palace. Amazingly, we were the only ones watching as the carriages rolled by just a few feet away. Ross shyly waved at the dignitaries inside, many of whom raised white-gloved hands in acknowledgement. Finally came the Queen and Prince Philip, who nodded and smiled when Ross waved at them.
      Talk about a jolly good show. Here we were, barely arrived in London, and we’d practically met Her Majesty, the Queen.
     Traveling with children to Europe may seem a daunting prospect, but the enriching experiences that await you more than compensate for the occasional aggravation. Because my husband is Dutch, we’ve been fortunate to travel abroad many times with our kids. All told, we’ve visited 12 countries in Europe together.
     Images of magical moments in storybook surroundings come to mind when I think about the places we’ve explored: Jasper, our middle son, lighting a candle in Notre Dame; Scott, our oldest, playing hide-and-seek among ancient Roman ruins; all three boys mesmerized by the joyful sounds of a calliope near Amsterdam’s Central Station. Our photo albums bulge with pictures of our sons traipsing through the pages of history.
     As you can imagine, we’ve learned a thing or two about traveling to Europe with children. What follows are tips to make your family’s trip abroad relaxing and stress-free, including ideas to help you plan your vacation and suggestions on where to stay.

Plan Ahead
     Begin preparing for your European vacation early. Research fares online at least six months before you plan to leave. Also apply for your children’s passports early. You don’t want to be nervously waiting for them to arrive at the last minute. In fact, my best advice is to plan your trip as far in advance as possible. That way, as your vacation nears, all you’ll need to worry about is what to pack.
     Consider traveling in the shoulder season. Airfare and accommodations will likely be cheaper, crowds fewer, and the weather in spring and fall can be pleasant and mild. If you prefer to go in summer, try to visit in June since European children, as a rule, are still in school then.
     Try not to plan too much during your visit. Granted, the countries all seem close together, and the temptation is great to cram as much culture into your vacation as possible. But you can’t get to know a place if you breeze through it in a couple of days. One summer, we spent four weeks traveling through France, Belgium, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, and the Netherlands with a 1-year-old, no less. Of course, we ended up exhausted and overwhelmed.
     If it’s your first trip to the Continent, consider visiting Northern European countries, where most people speak English. And if you’ve never driven in Europe, make sure you learn the basic road rules. Better yet, consider using public transportation. Traveling by train allows you to sit back and enjoy the scenery, and rail passes can be an excellent value, especially when traveling with young children.
     Do your research. Learn about the cities you plan to visit. Involve your kids by going to the library for books about the places you’ll visit. Request literature from tourist bureaus. Soon large envelopes containing colorful booklets will arrive in your mailbox, and your kids will share in the excitement of the upcoming trip.

Where to Stay
     While in Europe, my family has stayed in bungalow parks, timeshare resorts, rental homes, hotels and campgrounds. The Internet makes it easy to research accommodation options online. Here are a few of our favorites:
• Bungalow Parks: These vacation villages are sprinkled throughout Northern Europe and offer cozy, well-equipped bungalows along with incredible family-friendly amenities, such as indoor water parks, playgrounds, rental bikes, kids’ activities and more. CenterParc and Landal GreenParks, both based in the Netherlands, offer bungalows in a variety of locations, including Germany, France, Belgium and the Czech Republic. Recently, we stayed in a CenterParc property called De Eemhof near Amsterdam. Ross loved riding a bike through the park, which is car-free and very safe for kids.
• Timeshare Resorts: Many timeshare properties welcome overnight guests. We just returned from Marriott’s Village d’ile-de-France near Disneyland Resort Paris and loved our luxurious two-bedroom town home, which was affordably priced at a special winter rate of 119 euros ($151) per night.
• Private Rental Homes: While arranging a private rental takes time and an adventurous spirit, it also represents a great value and offers families a chance to stay in a home away from home. We’ve stayed in two rental properties, both of which we found via a Web site called Vacation Rentals by Owners. Most recently, we rented a picturesque villa in Vence with a view of the Mediterranean for a low-season weekly rate of 500 euros ($635).
• Hotels: These vary from rather expensive to very expensive, but you can find reasonable rates online if you book in advance and/or travel in the shoulder season. We like Radisson SAS hotels, found in most major European cities; they offer a phenomenal breakfast buffet your kids will love.

What to Take
Here are a few essentials for a family adventure in Europe.
• If your children are old enough, bring an iPod or CD player with a headset for each child. In addition to children’s music, your kids can also listen to pre-recorded stories.
• A Game Boy or similar portable game system can be invaluable. Once, Peter and I took our sons to Restaurant Fournaise just outside of Paris, the same restaurant captured by Renoir in his famous painting titled “Luncheon of the Boaters.” As the boys tuned in to their electronic toys, Peter and I relaxed over an elegant lunch on the terrace beside the River Seine. We hardly knew the boys were there.
• Don’t forget your video camera. New models are barely larger than a camera and easy to use. Even our kids took videos during our travels.
• Stock up on drinks and fresh fruit as you travel. Kids’ needs are immediate, and you might find yourself in a pricey area with very thirsty kids. Once, we paid $5 for a liter of orange juice at a late-night convenience store in Paris. Expensive, but our kids needed it. In fact, we all did!
• Pack a backpack with some of your kids’ favorite things, but don’t overdo it. On one trip, we had every kind of activity book imaginable for our sons, and what did they want? A pad of plain paper to draw on. Luckily, we didn’t have to pay $5 for that!
• Don’t forget warm clothing, even if you plan to visit in the summer. We’ve had to buy sweatshirts, jeans and socks because we just weren’t prepared for the cooler temperatures.
• If you have small children and can afford it, consider asking a teen you know to come along. Any young adult would welcome a chance to visit Europe, and you’d have an extra pair of hands to help with the kids. As an added bonus, you and your spouse can escape for a romantic evening out.
• Lastly, bring a sense of humor. Our family became separated one summer while visiting the Eiffel Tower. Scott, Jasper and I hiked to the second level while Peter and Ross stayed on the first. We’d agreed to meet back on the first level, but the older boys and I ended up descending to the ground because we couldn’t find Peter and Ross. Two hours later, after waiting expectantly as elevator after elevator emptied out, we saw Peter looking down from the first level. We laugh about it now, but at the time it was a little frightening.

Once You’re There
     One important element of any vacation — especially a trip to Europe with children — is balance. Make sure you arrange quiet time along with kid-friendly outings to balance out city-centered jaunts. Near the end of one hectic vacation abroad, we found a lovely beach on the Belgian coast, where the sun and the sea helped restore our sanity. Include quiet activities, such as going to a beach or hiking along nature trails. Just checking in with Mother Nature does wonders for your spirits.
     Picnic to keep costs down. Meals in restaurants, especially in touristy areas, can be expensive, and children’s menus are a rarity. One of our most memorable meals was eaten in a Paris hotel, where we dined on groceries bought at the supermarket a block away: a green salad, crusty French bread, cheese, fruit and ham. An inexpensive bottle of French wine for us and creamy milk for the kids rounded out the meal.
     Expanding our children’s knowledge of the world around us is, of course, the primary reason for undertaking a trip abroad. One poignant memory I have is of Jasper when he was about 7 years old, standing outside a majestic cathedral in Germany and asking, “Can we go in there, Mom?”
     After touring a number of historic buildings, including many churches, here was Jasper, ready to explore another one. My precocious young son, who doted on video games and rough-and-tumble antics with his friends, found something soothing in the quiet stillness of these ancient cathedrals. They awakened a sense of peace and spirituality in him. It was a magical discovery for all of us, one of many that continue to make our trips to Europe worthwhile.

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