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 Where the Wild Things Are
Points North Journeys to the Land Down Under For Our Own Aussie Adventure
By Julie Clark
“Those who lose dreaming are lost.” This ancient aboriginal wisdom softly echoes in my mind when I reminisce about my surreal journey through Australia’s southern coast. This place makes me feel as though I fell into a dream that is both magical yet comfortingly familiar. Strange animals hop, cling, waddle and lumber through its rustic landscape from the country’s native kangaroos, koalas and crocodiles to little penguins and the elusive platypus. When it’s fall here, it’s springtime there, and the Southern Cross makes its nightly appearance in expansive jet-black skies. The jagged coastline of the Great Ocean Road conjures an intoxicating mix of both beauty and danger, while the low humming of the aborigine’s musical didgeridoo soothes the senses.
Here I stood in the world’s oldest, flattest and driest inhabited continent, yet it teemed with life. My adventure began in the city of Melbourne and ended with a breathtaking spin down the mythic Great Ocean Road. If that aboriginal saying is indeed true, than you will assuredly never get lost in this land of Oz.
G’day Mate
“Attention Fare Evaders: If you’re not paying for your ride, then someone else is. Maybe you should find them, apologise and take them out for a nice dinner.” Not your typical sign in a train car, is it? But then again, this is Melbourne, and I’m slowly beginning to realize I’m not in Kansas anymore. So let me first familiarize you with a bit of the Aussie attitude.
No Worries. If there are two words to acquaint yourself with before venturing to Australia, this is it. No worries, mate, if you show up 20 minutes late for dinner. No worries if you lose $20,000 at the races. And no worries if you accidentally clip your rental car while pulling into a parking space at the airport … oops. The odd creatures and scenic sights are wonderful, but it’s the Australians themselves, with their wry wit and easygoing attitude that embrace you after the long journey. They may indeed be the most endearing, affable and perhaps even the most self-deprecating people on the planet, so don’t forget to pack your sense of humor.
The country itself is as large as the continental United States, but only boasts a population of about 20 million, with about 1.6 percent being native aborigines. The major cities can be found hugging the coastline, while the Outback’s expansive desert roams free in the center. As you tour, the influence of both British and American cultures becomes evident, and it is indeed a unique amalgam of the two. I was told Americans think Australia is very British, while the British think Australia is very American, but the truth is we are all more like brothers with strikingly different personalities.
Australians have a habit of shortening words, so much so they basically have created a new English language. It’s not an Australian; it’s Aussie or “Ozzies.” You don’t throw a shrimp on the barbecue, it’s the barbie. And you may arrive in Melbourne, but you’ll leave “Melbun.” Through my travels down under, I think I’ve discovered why shorter words are best. These are people of action, and sport is their lifeblood, although I didn’t realize to what extent until I was in Australia this past November for its annual Melbourne Cup — a racing event that stops a nation.
 Leave it to Diva
Before I could even step off the plane, I knew her name. Makybe Diva. She was on the lips of women swinging hatboxes; she was splashed across the front page of every newspaper; and she invaded the airwaves like a smash hit single. If she won the 2005 Melbourne Cup, the noble 7-year-old mare would make history as the only three-time consecutive winner of this world-renowned race. It soon became clear that the best time to visit Melbourne was during this pinnacle event. The entire state of Victoria literally shuts down for this spring carnival, and the entire nation turns its eyes to the finish line. I, too, immediately caught the diva fever and could barely contain my excitement as I made my way through Melbourne’s ridiculously clean city streets on the prowl for the perfect racing hat.
After settling in at the comfortably modern Hotel Lindrum, I was ready to explore the thriving city. Within moments, we came upon one of the city’s most beloved icons — the historic Flinders Street Station. The famous train station harkens back to the city’s gold rush in the 1850s and the colossal wealth it generated in town. In fact, a walking tour offers the finest and most elaborate Victorian architecture in the entire country. Melbourne is well known for its gardens as well, so bring some walking shoes and picnic blankets. If lady luck is on your arm, you may just want to stroll over to the $1-billion Crown Entertainment Complex, which includes the country’s largest casino and a luxury hotel well worth a whirl.
It’s easy to get sidetracked in this city, but I was a woman on a mission. I arrived shamefully hatless, and I had to find that perfect accompaniment for my rose-colored dress. I was going to meet Ms. Makybe Diva now, and I had to look my best. There are numerous magnificent shopping arcades but when a girl needs a hat, there is one place she must go — David Jones Department Store, the Bloomingdales of Melbourne. The big race was days away, however, nothing could have prepared me for the pandemonium that was in store, quite literally. Each woman carried so many hats that if she stood still long enough, you just might mistake her for a display rack. The selection was as diverse as it was beautiful, and chapeaus dripped with feathers, flowers, beads and such detailed adornments, I didn’t know whether to wear it or frame it. Ranging in price from $100 Australian dollars to a hefty $800, the assortment offered at David Jones was truly befitting royalty. If by some strange twist of fate, you cannot find the chapeau of your dreams here, never fear, hats are everywhere, ensuring no woman leaves empty headed. A few hours later, missing a few tufts of hair, I stumbled out into the busy street with a hatbox and a rumbling appetite.
Next stop was Federation Square, a modern monument to the new millennium that has become Melbourne’s meeting place and a cultural icon in the city. This hip little joint is the place to go for food, cigars, entertainment, and a lively view of the city’s signature sights stretching from the Melbourne Cricket Grounds to the rowing sheds of the Yarra River. The complex combines various attractions, including the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, the Australian Racing Museum & Hall of Fame, and the Melbourne Visitor Centre, as well as 15 restaurants, cafés and bars. We headed straight up to Taxi Dining Room, a hotspot for modern Australian cuisine dashed with Asian flavors where sake mingles with fine wine. Sake, you say? Well, it appears that sake is actually brewed, not distilled and is apparently more akin to wine than to spirits. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, this dining delight is one you wouldn’t want to miss. In the mood for a little nightlife? Head down to the youthful Transport for a taste of some local brews like Victoria Bitters. In the mood to chill? Then up you go to Transit, a lounge garden for a sip of scotch and puff of a cigar.
The Diva Delivers
When game day finally arrived, I was amazed to discover that one of the most popular ways to arrive at the races was by the trains leaving Flinders Street Station, so off we went, chapeau and all, for the big event. The streets were electrified with race wear, and I had to smile in amusement as I stood on the train looking over a sea of hats. I may have felt like Audrey Hepburn, but it’s a bit hard to look like her sandwiched between hoards of race goers. The amazingly pristine metro trains are packed with suits, sundresses and feathered hats, not to mention deliciously quirky public service announcements.
Once at the track, I realized that people watching was as popular an event as the horse racing itself, and I marveled at the fashionistas at every turn. While most men wore suits and ties, I did spot two men dressed in “dress suits” with matching chapeaus, the personification of Jackie O on steroids. There goes that Aussie humor again, proving that you can never take anything too seriously. At least until Makybe Diva took the field, then you could feel the energy rise and the humor subside. At the last turn, Diva was edging the lead, and with deafening cheers, thousands of people jumped to their feet in one sweeping unison. It was a moment of “Seabiscuit” proportions when she became the first horse in history to win the Melbourne Cup thrice.
The papers the next morning were covered in Diva mania, and the famed horse’s trainer Lee Freedman summed up the momentous occasion, “Go and find the smallest child here . . . they’ll be the only one who could live long enough to see anything like this again.”
Stay and Sip Awhile
With the big win under my hat, there were just a few more jaunts to make before embarking on one of the world’s most awe-inspiring drives — The Great Ocean Road (see cover photo). Slightly more than an hour from Melbourne, the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula offer a peaceful refuge from city life that just so happens to offer some of the best wine plucked from the vine.
At one time, this wine country was predominately an agricultural region bursting with apple and cherry orchards, but in the past 20 years, a proliferation of vineyards started taking root. Actually, vines were planted in the region as early as the 1830s, but it wasn’t until the mid ’90s when the Yarra Valley really became known as a premier wine region.
World-renowned for its Pinot Noirs and its sparkling wines, the region overflows with more than 55 wineries. Made popular by the hit film “Sideways,” Pinot Noir is an exceedingly challenging grape to grow; yet under the tender guidance of these expert vintners, it flourishes within the valley’s cool climate. The Yarra Valley is also a prolific producer of Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, all offering tongue-tingling results.
Conveniently, the wineries are very close to one another, so you can sample many different wineries in just one day. Among them are the TarraWarra Estate, with a sleek architectural design and an impressive art gallery, Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove with its exceptional Chardonnay Pinot, and Victoria’s first vineyard Yering Station, with its rich history, delectable Shiraz Viognier and fanciful farmer’s market held all year on the third Sunday of every month.
Yarra Valley has also become a “mecca for foodies” and serves up fresh local produce, food festivals and seasonal fruit picking. For a delicious day in wine country, pick a strawberry or two at the Sunny Ridge Strawberry Farm and Fruit Winery in the Mornington Peninsula When I was a child, I often accompanied my mother and grandmother as they went strawberry picking at a local farm. So believe me when I say these are the plumpest, juiciest, rosiest strawberries I’ve ever seen. Don’t miss a visit to Sunny Ridge’s store packed with jams, strawberry wine, homemade ice cream and other sweet treats that are perfect gifts for loved ones, or better yet, your own taste buds.
As if wine and strawberries did not relax me enough, I’ve never been one to pass up a spa experience, especially from a place steeped in aboriginal culture and bubbling with hot springs. The Peninsula Hot Springs, offers nine natural hot spring pools, including five outdoor ones. In this outdoor grotto surrounded by tea trees, a massaging waterfall pool, a steamy spa couch and a cold plunge pool provide all the ingredients for utter relaxation. Spa treatments inspired by traditional Australian Aboriginal techniques produce such sublime peace of mind that I nearly fell asleep while dreamily listening to native chants and the buzzing steady rhythm of didgeridoos, a long thick wooden pipe used as an aboriginal musical instrument.
As for where to lay your head after an arduous day of sipping wine in this incredible sea of vineyards, there are two premier locations that offer unparalleled charm and many moments of Zen — Chateau Yering and Woodman Estate. Set on a 250-acre estate amidst rambling hills and grazing cows, the five-star Chateau Yering is the pinnacle of luxurious country living. Here you can enjoy a morning balloon ride over the Yarra Valley or play a round at the Jack Nicklaus-designed Heritage Golf Course before visiting a host of fine wineries. Each room is not only outfitted in antique furnishings, but also a cuddly cat (of the stuffed animal variety) that greets you to your room. Instead of hanging a “do not disturb” sign on your doorknob, simply
put the cat in the hall for the night. This charming hotel signature comes from the British tradition of “putting the cat out” each evening before going to bed.
If absolute relaxation is your ideal sojourn in wine county, then the Woodman Estate surrounded by 50 acres of perfumed bush land and a
4-acre private lake sanctuary will soothe even the most savage beast. Here guests can go fly-fishing in the trout-stocked lake or head out for a relaxing row across the placid waters. The luxury country house offers cozy fine dining and luxurious spa treatments offering a wide spectrum of massage, skin care and beauty treatments.
Koala Sighting and a Shark Bite
Amazingly, koalas cannot be found roaming around the city streets of Melbourne or munching on grapes in the Yarra Valley, so I was giddy with childlike delight to visit Phillip Island to see my very first Australian Koala. Just under two hours from Melbourne, the island is a popular coastal retreat where koala, seal and even penguin watching is all part of the fun. We made it to the observation deck just in time before it closed, and I rushed out to the boardwalk to get a closer look at these adorable creatures. The towering trees looked like larger-than-life pussy willows, as you could spot blobs of gray fur wrapped around various tree branches. I wish I had packed some binoculars (a true must for any Aussie adventurer), because these little devils are a bit shy and love to climb high into the trees and sleepily munch on eucalyptus, which dominates the landscape. Apparently, it is not very nutritious and makes them a bit lethargic. Actually, “a bit lethargic” is quite an understatement, as they sleep nearly 20 hours a day and eat for about four. You may need a few good sightings to see more than just cute, furry lumps. On this particular sighting, it was late in the day, so most were napping comfortably, however, I did spot one at eye-level hugging a tree. A thousand photos later, it was time to eat.
We headed straightaway to the Taylor’s Waterfront Restaurant, which not only serves the island’s premier seafood, but a glorious view of the ocean. The restaurant specializes in local lobster and seafood platters, not to mention a wide range of Australian wine and beer, but there was something else on the menu that caught my attention. Shark! I couldn’t refuse a bite of my long-feared nemesis any more than Captain Ahab could pass up Moby Dick tartar. To my surprise, it was prepared like breaded chicken tenders, and I reveled in the fact that it would be I who was eating shark in Australia and not the other way around.
 March of the “Little” Penguins
Koalas, sure. Kangaroos, of course. But penguins? Somehow they never waddled into my expectations on a vacation in Australia, but here I was, sitting in stealth-like silence on a Phillip Island beach donning night vision goggles and a small earpiece. I felt as though I was on “Mission Impossible,” but in fact, I was on the “Ultimate Penguin Tour,” waiting for our first tiny arrival to begin its nightly march from the foamy wake. Twilight had past and I began to squint as I saw the first brave soul emerge. And then I saw him disappear again under the waves. He would bob, waddle, retreat … bob, waddle, retreat, until finally affirming the road was clear and then began his hurried march from the sea. Once he set webbed foot on sand, two other penguins popped up, following his lead, and then another, and another. More than 50 little penguins marched past us, completely unaware that nearly 10 tourists were watching nearby in breathless anticipation. But these guys didn’t lumber along like the emperor penguins in last year’s incredibly popular independent film. Nope, they waddled with such speed and determination you would have thought a Great White was fast on their flippers. Turns out these little guys emerge every night like clockwork in harried pursuit of their sandy burrows hidden under spiky clumps of grass.
When the last penguin made his way past our huddled group, I thought the show was over … but it appears my ultimate penguin experience was yet to come. On our small hike back to the visitor’s center, you could hear unusual sounds coming from the thick brush that surrounded us in the night. The noise was almost frightening to an overactive imagination such as mine, and the words of travel writer Bill Bryson kept creeping into my subconscious: “Australia has more things that will kill you than anywhere else.” So when our guide stopped short, and each toddling tourist came to an abrupt halt, my imagination went into overdrive. As I peeked around the others, I saw our roadblock — a penguin perched proudly on the steps. She refused to let us pass, and our guide insisted we wait a while until she scurried into the brush again, but she never did. Very stubborn girl I may add, and I wondered how creatures so timid of the open beach could stand fearless staring down a towering troupe of gawking tourists. After several minutes, it appeared the humans lost this little game of chicken, and our guide instructed us to gently move around her and continue our trek up the narrow stairs. So, we did just that, but it soon became clear that penguins were everywhere. Doddering on the side of the street, weaving through the parking lot, and even hiding behind an old boot as we entered the building!
I had been in Australia only five days and I had already watched history being made at a day at the races, sipped some of the finest Pinot Noir, spotted my first koala, ate a shark (instead, of being eaten by one), and nearly tripped over a hoard of penguins. I wondered how the rest of my time here would compare, as I climbed behind the wheel to explore one of the world’s most scenic wonders — The Great Ocean Road — while in hot pursuit of my first wild kangaroo sighting. But as you’ll soon discover, no worries, mate. The fun is just beginning.
Be sure to check out our August issue for the concluding story on Points North’s Aussie adventure
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