The 12 Apostles at sunset Photo courtesy of tourism Australia

A Wind-Whipped Joy Ride Down Australia’s Great Ocean Road

By Julie Clark

    I was only 12 years old when I tentatively climbed into the backseat to commence our annual family vacation. We were about to begin a quest few families have ever attempted and even less have survived — a cross-country road trip to California. (And in a station wagon, no less!) With nearly four weeks spent on U.S. highways, you can imagine the incessant chant of “Are we there yet?” By the time we arrived at the Grand Canyon, I could barely drag my feet out of the car to gawk at one more “scenic” overlook.
     I followed my family slowly and with a painfully obvious lack of exuberance. As I reached the canyon and my eyes met the boundless panoramic vista painted in warm shades of red and orange, my heart stopped. Never in my life had I seen anything so massive, so beautiful and so awe-inspiring. It’s one of those joyful memories that never ceases to amaze you, a moment that leaves you struggling to catch your breath and hungrily trying to absorb all of nature’s bounty. But in all my travels, that all-consuming feeling came again only once. It returned to me in waves, as I stood exhilarated in childlike wonder exploring Australia’s Great Ocean Road.

A Wild Ride
     The time had come to leave Melbourne and head off on a road trip that would hopefully leave me breathless, and not gasping for breath while plummeting my rental car into the swallowing sea. You see, in Australia, “British” driving rules apply, so that means I would be driving on the opposite side of the road, on the opposite side of the car, down one of the curviest, wind-ravaged coastlines filled with sharp cliffs and even sharper drops. Yes, to say it was going to be a bigger adventure than I first expected would be a profound understatement.
     Other than hitting the windshield wipers instead of the turn signal nearly 200 times, I was pleased to discover that getting out of Melbourne would be the trickiest driving maneuver I would face on my nearly 500-mile trek through the Great Southern Touring Route. Melbourne is the only city in Australia that boasts the infamous “hook turn” — a special right-turn maneuver that leaves your knuckles white with an impenetrable death grip on the steering wheel. I’ll do my best to explain this Evil Knievel stunt. Picture turning right at an intersection from the left-most lane of traffic. Not to mention having to wait for passing cars and trams to come to a rolling stop when the light turns yellow before making your mad dash. Then throw in the Aussie driving rules and a novice American behind the wheel and you’ve got quite a wild ride ahead of you. There are about 13 of these hook turns to accommodate tram traffic in the city, so you may want to discuss them with your car rental agency before heading out on the road.
     Once I got off the hook in Melbourne, so to speak, I set my course through the charming holiday towns of Torquay, Lorne, Warrnambool and Port Fairy, to name a few. Along the way, I would explore the towering forests of Otway National Park, take a helicopter tour over the illustrious 12 Apostles, and tremble at the foot of Loch Ard Gorge. Later, I would fish hook back through the rugged Grampians National Park, the historic gold rush town of Ballarat, and lastly enjoy peaceful refuge in Daylesford’s spa country.

But before we get started on our journey, there is one friend I would like you to meet.

Pleased to Meet Roo
     Now, I had pictured my first kangaroo sighting in the most romantic way. Dressed in freshly starched khakis, I would gingerly sneak through the thick bush lands to peer at these curious animals munching on grassy plains. Imagine my surprise when my first face-to-face meeting with a brood of wild roos took place on a golf course.
     While on the Great Ocean Road, make sure you take a quick detour in the city of Anglesea, and more specifically the Anglesea Golf Club, which has quite a reputation with golfers who not only have to contend with sand traps and water hazards, but loafing hordes of kangaroos. And I do mean hordes.
I thought I would drive along the gated course and see a roo or two, but was pleasantly greeted with so many sightings, I completely lost count, from joeys still snug in the pouch to picnicking parents enjoying a smorgasbord of green grass. I truly don’t know how the course functions, but I understand the golfers just make them part of the game. But be forewarned, I wouldn’t wear white shoes if I were you, as you should add “roo doo” to your list of golfing hazards.

The waves of Torquay Photo courtesy of Tourism Victoria / Photographer: Steve Ryan

Surf’s Up
     I will try to spare you the visions of Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze in the final scene of the surfing caper movie “Point Break,” but you should note that the crashing waves that pound Australia’s sandy coast are a world-renowned mecca for surfer dudes and dudettes, especially the town of Torquay and its famous Bells Beach. Here, an underwater rock platform stirs ups some wicked waves that have lured thrill seekers from all over the world, especially during the Rip Curl Pro, an international surfing competition that takes place every Easter. I dipped just one toe in the water to note its chilly depths and decided I would much prefer to watch from the sidelines. (There is nothing between the icy coasts of Antarctica and Southern Australia, so the water is a bit cold for this transplanted Southerner.)
     For the night, I stayed in the picturesque town of Lorne situated between the Louit Bay and Otway Forest. Lorne faces an expansive horseshoe beach and is an ideal spot for backpackers interested in both coastal and forest adventures. I spent the evening at the charmingly modern Cumberland Lorne Hotel, which offers large suites, a private spa, and glorious panoramic views from sizeable private balconies.
     Otway’s southern temperate rainforest includes a famed 400-year-old myrtle beech tree along with lush green plant life of “Jurassic Park” proportions that makes one think a T. Rex will soon come rampaging through the forest. While talking with a backpacker, I was surprised to learn that koalas can make the most terrifying sounds. I found it hard to believe these cuddly little teddy bears could make such bone-chilling roars … until I heard their bellows with my own ears. The sound often heard reverberating through the trees is a terrifying mixture of a gorilla and a tiger. You need not look for a designated nature park to see koalas; just drive around looking for eucalyptus trees and start playing a game of eye-spy. No worries though. They may sound fierce, but koalas will do you no harm; just resist the temptation to touch one in the wild. Their claws are exceedingly sharp and they aren’t afraid to use them.

The 12 Apostles
     The wind ran wild through my hair when I arrived at the Great Ocean Road’s iconic natural monument — the 12 Apostles. After facing the ferocity of the gusts that day, I realized its relentless attack was responsible for carving the coastline into astonishing patterns, as well as the magnificent rock formations I was about to experience.
     Amazingly, there were no tacky souvenir shops peddling T-shirts or other mementos, just a small visitor center that seemed to blend seamlessly into the landscape. The main attraction was the handiwork of Mother Nature, not man. When I stepped to the first lookout point, the larger-than-life seascape seemed to stretch into infinity as I struggled to take it all in, just as I had at the Grand Canyon so many years ago.
    Found just off shore in the Port Campbell National Park, the 12 Apostles are giant rock pillars made of eroded limestone that stretch toward the heavens. Today, there are no longer 12 Apostles, only eight, as four have crumbled into the sea in rocky mounds thanks to the continuous erosion that chips away at the coast. The most recent casualty fell just over a year ago, yet despite this loss, the Apostles have not lost an ounce of their magical allure. The golden mammoth rocks vary widely in both height and width and seem to erupt from swirling sapphire waters.
     While known worldwide by this majestic name, few are aware of its original, far less dramatic label — the Sows and Piglets. The name was changed more than 50 years ago to conjure a more suitable description of these natural marvels, and I’m sure you’ll agree the decision was a wise one.
     The designated lookout points are often filled with tourists, so I would suggest you take a helicopter tour to drink in the expansive scenery and gaze deeply down the extraordinary coastline. Also nearby, winding stairs lead down to a beach shadowed by steep cliffs, which is decidedly less crowded and affords a wonderful coastal view. If possible, time your 12 Apostles visit around sunrise or sunset, when the red glow paints quite a magnificent scene that will long remain etched in your memory.

Dangerous Beauty
     “Immigrant, you shriek — I hear you — I am the land you seek. In sight of Salvation — Miscalculation — Welcome to my deep.” These haunting words etched in stone stood in stark contrast to the beautiful vista that unfolded before me. Twisting and turning down miles of roadway along jagged cliffs and a bubbling sea whipped into a foamy frenzy, it was easy to see why this stretch of the Great Ocean Road was also known by a more menacing moniker — The Shipwreck Coast.
     Nearly 80 shipwrecks, often packed full of hopeful immigrants, lay somberly below the crashing waves along the 80-mile stretch of coast. (In fact, Australia’s never-ending coastline is the final resting place of more than 6,500 sunken ships, averaging about one every 5 miles.) None was more famous than the ill-fated journey of the Loch Ard. The doomed voyage began in 1878, when 18 passengers and 36 crewmembers set sail from England to the far-off destination of Melbourne. After 13 weeks at sea, they finally gained sight of Australia’s coast … only to be dashed against the rocky coast. It took less than 15 minutes for the vessel to sink into its watery grave, and only two people escaped Davy Jones’ Locker: an 18-year-old crewmember named Tom Pearce and a young Irish woman he saved from a floating piece of wreckage. Just a short drive from the 12 Apostles, the Loch Ard Gorge historic site is a must-see not only for the breath-stealing views, but to reflect at the awesome power of nature and the countless would-be immigrants who safely traveled thousands of miles only to die within sight of land.
     Another not-to-be-missed scenic outlook is the London Arch, formerly known as the London Bridge. This arch formation once formed a natural bridge, but partially collapsed due to erosion in 1990, leaving two tourists temporarily stranded, but fortunately unscathed. Dangerous beauty, indeed.

End of the Road?
     It was November, so I bypassed Warrnambool, a bustling coastal town known for the southern right whales that can be spotted from Logans Beach between the months of June and September. (Warrnambool, you say? Well, just like America’s penchant for naming many locations after Native American words, so too does Australia honor its Aboriginal heritage. Just prepare yourself for tongue-twisting towns.)
    My next destination was Port Fairy, but first I highly recommend a stop at the Tower Hill Game Reserve. Just 8 miles west of Warrnambool, this extinct volcano crater offers a stunning backdrop, especially at dusk, to spot emus, koalas, kangaroos, magpie geese, echidnas and beautiful waterbirds. Emus, a native flightless bird similar to the ostrich, are plentiful here. So plentiful, in fact, one roamed leisurely past our car in the parking lot. We were also treated to the rare sight of a koala actually moving across the ground. The park offers picnic sites; five self-guided walks, including Whurrong Walk, detailing common Aboriginal foods; and the Worn Gundidj Visitor Centre, a perfect spot to purchase authentic Aboriginal products, from hand-painted boomerangs and vases to distinctive jewelry.
     A short drive down the road is a place reminiscent of old whaling towns found in worn Civil War-era daguerreotypes. Port Fairy is a charming sea village full of historic buildings and a sophisticated batch of restaurants, shops and bed-and-breakfasts. I heartily recommend staying at Oscars Waterfront Boutique Hotel, if not for the cozy, French provincial rooms with roaring fireplaces and flowering courtyard, then for the glorious breakfast that awaits on the verandah overlooking a river lined with softly rocking sailboats. I don’t know if it’s the view or the sugary sweetness of the caramelized banana hotcakes that makes this delightful place so especially satisfying. The town may be a bit sleepy, but it could never be called dull, especially during its many festivals, such as the Folk Music Festival in March, the Spring Music Festival in October, and Rhapsody in June.

Roughing It
     Once you’ve come to the end of the Great Ocean Road, you must resist the temptation to turn around and drive back the way you came. Instead, journey deeper into the heart of Australia along the Great Southern Touring Route to the rugged splendor of Grampians National Park. The park is well known as a rock climber’s paradise and boasts sweeping scenes of sandstone mountain ranges, stunning springtime wildflower displays, and a wide variety of animal tracking. The area also boasts the most Aboriginal rock art in southeast Australia. The ideal time to visit is in winter and spring when cooler temperatures make hiking a breeze, especially during the month of October (early spring) when the famous wildflowers are in full bloom.
     In January, bushfires damaged a portion of the Grampians, but the park is up and running and on its way to restoring damaged areas. (Travelers should check the Web site at www.visitgrampians.com.au for updates on park improvements and to peruse the “Grampians on Sale” packages offering discounts on food, entertainment and lodging.)
     One of the best ways to explore the park is a safari-like four-wheel-drive tour with Grampians Personalised Tours and Adventures, who also offer rock climbing and bush walking excursions. On our travels, we gave a pair of emus quite a scare as they raced down the road, startled by our noisy arrival. Not the smartest birds mind you, as they ran straight down the center of the road until finally one got the wise idea to head back into the bush. Next, a two-headed skink stopped us dead in our tracks. The little lizard had developed quite a self-defense mechanism — a tail that looks just like his head, leaving predators perplexed as to where to bite first.
     We saw countless kangaroos and wallabies (a smaller breed of kangaroos) and stopped to admire the red Aboriginal rock art and unusual plant life peppered throughout the park. The most surprising observation of kangaroos is that they can’t walk. If they are not hopping, they move over short distances like crumpled old men, hobbling along the ground using their long tails as a steadying cane. But the most up-close-and-personal animal adventure occurred during our tea-and-cookie break by a placid pond where I quickly perfected my “Aussie salute.” In the bush, flies are tenacious little critters, and the little buggers seem to make a beeline for your face like a kamikaze pilot. The so-called “salute” is a windshield-wiper wave that is truly your only line of defense.
     If you don’t mind roughing it for the day, but prefer luxurious accommodations at night, then a night at the historic Royal Mail Hotel at the southern tip of Grampians National Park should be where your trail ends. Situated in the tiny town of Dunkeld, the historic hotel’s signature architectural design offers postcard-worthy patio views of the Grampian mountain ranges. The award-winning menu and wine list at the hotel’s restaurant is packed full of fine a la carte dining featuring a bounty of fresh, local produce such as buffalo cheese, smoked wild eels, and fresh free range eggs that are delivered to the restaurant within 48 hours of being laid.

A wildflower field in Grampians Photo courtesy of Tourism Victoria / Photographer: Jon Nash

Hop, Skip and a Jump
     From Grampians, I continued on the touring route to the historic town of Ballarat. The Aboriginal name means “resting place,” but is a smidge misleading as the town is abuzz with bustling outdoor cafés, shoppers darting in and out of stores, and a lively music scene. Ballarat also has a rich history, quite literally. In the mid-1800s, the area struck gold and the town grew quickly, making it one of the largest inland cities in Victoria. Thanks to its gold rush past, the detailed architecture makes for an entertaining stroll.
     For me, the best part of the day was spent at the nearby Ballarat Wildlife Park. I was expecting to spend just an hour here and then head off to spa country, but I had so much fun, it turned into a two-hour tour. Tame kangaroos and emus roam free, allowing guests to not only touch the docile creatures, but to feed them as well. You can literally plop down on the grass right next to a kangaroo with a joey sticking out of her pouch and pose for a picture. She won’t mind. Here they have a slew of animals including Tasmanian devils and the native wombat that looks like a mutant guinea pig with buckteeth
     Not everything here is cute and cuddly, as is evident in the snake pavilion filled with some of the most poisonous reptiles in the country. Since you won’t be seeing wild crocodiles in the state of Victoria (thank goodness!), the park offers a unique chance to view them and, at special times, they’re are publicly fed to the delight of camera-flashing tourists. But the biggest star of the park is the koala encounter where guests can pet koalas and actually have their photo taken with one. Tourists to this region are in luck because koalas look different all over Australia, and due to the region’s chilly winter months, Victoria’s variety is the fluffiest, chubbiest and, in my opinion, cutest.
     Just when I was about to leave, I spied a roo lounging under the shade of a picnic table. I wished I would have resisted the temptation of having lunch in one of the many cafés in Ballarat and picked something up at their café instead. How often can
you lunch at a picnic table with a snoozing kangaroo gently tickling your toes?

A Day in Daylesford
     Just a short jaunt off the Great Southern Touring Route, the tiny spa town of Daylesford and nearby Hepburn Springs provides
a relaxing retreat from the wild ride of Australia’s scenic roadways. This heart of Victoria’s spa country tempts road-weary travelers with leisurely days spent boating on one of the many gentle lakes or melting away under healing hands.
     Here are two ethereal experiences not to be missed: One, be sure to stop at the Convent. And, no, I don’t mean a nunnery. Resting on the edge of the Wombat Hill Botanical Gardens, The Convent Gallery is considered one of the most beautiful galleries in all of Australia and from my experience, perhaps even the world. The building was formally a Catholic convent, but has been renovated into a heavenly showcase for more than 100 Australian and international artists. You could easily get lost drifting through the catacomb of rooms overflowing with visual treasures. The surrounding gardens are a feast for the eyes and few can resist a sinfully good afternoon tea at the Bad Habits Café.
     And two? Reserve a night for a meal at the Lake House restaurant, which was by far the finest meal on my trip. The award-winning menu overflows with contemporary Australian cuisine such as roast kangaroo filet, emu sausage with wild plum chutney, and pan-seared filet of blue eye fish dusted with Moroccan spices. Yes, it came as a shock to me too, but roos are on the menu. While I can be gastronomically adventurous, I just couldn’t bring myself to eat the adorable creature whose big brown eyes I had just gazed into earlier that day, so I had to pass on the roasted roo for the decidedly “not cute” Western Plains free-range pork. The 10,000-bottle wine cellar will top off your stellar meal, and don’t even get me started on the dessert list.
     The romantic atmosphere warmed by glowing light is perfect for a table set for two, and the view of the lake from the sprawling windows sets the mood to unwind and relax. When the sun sets, even the kookaburras know to fly to the restaurant patio for a fine feast. I can think of no more satisfying conclusion to one’s vacation than taking a moment of utter peacefulness in Daylesford before embarking on the long journey home.

    My Australian adventure may have been coming to a close, but I could console myself with one comforting thought. Each experience here had turned into a blissful memory that I would be taking back home with me. Just like the Grand Canyon, even now, it still leaves me breathless.

We hope you enjoyed our two-part series on the land Down Under. Don’t miss our Australian Vacation Giveaway at the top of our homepage for your chance to win your own Aussie adventure for two.

For More Information

There’s No Place Like Oz

    If you would like to plan a trip to Australia, here are a few helpful travel tips to ensure a safe and pleasant journey. First of all, the trip is quite long, about 14 hours from the West Coast, so if you are Oz bound, you will definitely want at least two full weeks of vacation time to have a restful and productive trip. If at all possible, fly business class, as your legs will thank you for it, but it is also imperative not to forget to get up and walk around as much as possible during your flight to ensure proper circulation.
     Qantas is Australia’s main airline, but I flew Air New Zealand from Los Angeles and was fortunate enough to have a quick layover in Auckland before arriving in Australia a few hours later. If you have more vacation time available and are making a trek to this part of the world, it would be the perfect time to broaden the trip with a jaunt in New Zealand, whose natural scenery is legendary. Its dramatic lush green coastline has lingered long in my mind and begs me to return. Also, some airlines offer package deals within Australia to see multiple regions of the country in the same trip.

Follow in Our Footsteps:
Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

Check out this super value travel package including air and land arrangements.

This six-day independent package includes:

Roundtrip economy class air on Qantas Airways from Los Angeles (add-ons available from other cities)

• Two nights in Melbourne at the Clarion Suites Gateway
• Melbourne City Sights tour
• Four days car rental
• One night in Apollo Bay at the Seafarers Gateway
• One night in Port Fairy at the Comfort Inn Port Fairy
• One night in Adelaide at the Saville City Suites

This travel package is available from $1,607* per person (based on double occupancy, taxes are additional). Book an Australian vacation by Oct. 31, 2006 and receive an additional $50 off the package price. (Package must include air and land travel.) Add-on nights in Melbourne or Yarra Valley are also available. To book, call ATS Tours at 866-839-6044 or visit www.atstours.com for more information.

*Travel by Sept. 21, 2006; add $310 for travel from Sept. 22 to Dec. 7, 2006 (other dates available). Subject to availability, cancellation fees and other restrictions may apply.