All in the family

Elegance and Taste Come Naturally to Anne Quatrano — the Matriarch of Atlanta’s Most Exclusive Eateries

By Tamara Holly

Anyone who has experienced an evening meal at Bacchanalia, Quinones at Bacchanalia or the Floataway Café will concur; they are extraordinary places where memories are savored for years. Whether it’s a special celebration or a routine dinner out, each meal is bound to be unforgettable and filled with exceptional flavor and undeniable sophistication.

The only thing missing is affectation. While such superior culinary creations may inspire delusions of grandeur in less food-focused chefs, Anne Quatrano is quick to dispel any inflated self-worth. “[Operating a restaurant] is a huge commitment of energy and time. It’s sometimes envisioned as a glamorous existence, but it’s not,” she laughed. “We’re glorified servants, literally. You have to have the right mindset [to be in the business]. The service is as important as the food and there is very little room for egos.” Citing what she refers to as “Star Chef Syndrome,” Quatrano believes a reality check may be in order for those who are a bit too self-impressed. “It’s not your food; you’re cooking it for someone else,” reminded Quatrano, subscribing to the theory that the customer is always right. “The bottom line is we’re here to make what they want to eat. We cook without ego, but with our hearts.”

“The bottom line is we’re here to make what they want to eat. We cook without ego, but with our hearts.”
Anne Quatrano

A Family Affair
It’s quite an impressive feat to remain humble when your signature restaurant Bacchanalia has been rated No. 1 in the “Zagat Guide City of Atlanta” for the past seven years. But that’s simply a testament to her southern charm and willingness to share the spotlight. Her team of consummate professionals includes Clifford Harrison, Quatrano’s husband, fellow chef and business partner, with whom she shared the coveted James Beard Award in 2003. She notes that knowing each other so well can sometimes create challenges but counts their similar work ethics as one of the secrets of their success. “Clifford and I spend time nurturing the staff and we give them creative freedom,” she noted.

She attributes the expertly poised symphony of her menus to the diversity of all members of her team and the “different forces and experiences” they collectively bring to the table. She feels rewarded when a member of her flock leaves the nest and spreads his or her wings. “Greg Dunmore is at Ame in San Francisco and is wildly successful,” she boasted. Dunmore went from line cook to sous chef at Bacchanalia before becoming the Chef de Cuisine at Floataway Café. Though Quatrano and Harrison have no children of their own — “we were always too busy,” she said — like a proud mama, she surrounds herself with the best in the business and hones the skills of her apprentices toward the success of her ventures and, eventually, their own. “We’re a big family,” she attested.

Elements of Success
When envisioning Bacchanalia, perhaps their most popular “child,” Quatrano and Harrison aimed for balanced elegance and ease. “We wanted everyone to feel comfortable,” Quatrano explained. While Bacchanalia, one of the city’s chicest and most revered venues, is perceived as a “special occasion” restaurant, Quatrano and her team strive to create menus that appeal to each and every guest, including frequent diners. “It’s so cliché, but we are an ingredient-driven restaurant. We’re chef owned and operated and that says that the people who make the first and last decision [about the menu] are the ones who are cooking.” She takes pride in guests leaving happy and “when they tell me they’ve had an amazing meal,” she said.

Together, they have raised an impressive and exemplary “family” of eateries, each one as unique as it is outstanding. Bacchanalia’s setting is sleek and contemporary with linen accents in varying shades of ivory and reds. Sharp angles and smooth surfaces collide with modern, simplistic flora. Offering a la carte menu items, as well as a four-course prix fixe menu, the dishes are at once comforting and exciting. Where else could you find both Southern and European delicacies from Alabama white shrimp and green tomato escabeche to wild mushroom consommé with potato gnocchi.

If you think Bacchanalia can’t get any better, just step into Quinones at Bacchanalia, the restaurant within the restaurant. Opened in 2005 and named for beloved colleague James Quinones, the addition has impressed guests with all the charm of a genuine Southern belle from the soft palettes of languid fabrics to the feminine curves of the furniture. Of course, the food doesn’t disappoint either. Traditional Southern fare like red snapper with artichokes and turnips gets all gussied up for this multi-course meal that can also be enjoyed with wine pairings for an additional charge. The enchanting truffle menu is one-of-a-kind.

Then there’s the Floataway Café, which couples industrial (the scene is a redesigned warehouse) with refinement (muted oceanic hues, fresh flowers and alluring courtyard). Easygoing pizzas, organic meats and seasonal vegetables round out Floataway’s bill of fare. Star Provisions and Provisions To Go allow guests to shop like pros for fresh ingredients, from artisan cheeses and meats to breads and sweets. Prepared meals are also available for take out, and seating is available for those looking to dine and run.

Farm Living
One might expect a chef of Quatrano’s echelon to reside in one of Buckhead’s luxurious mini mansions or perhaps one of Cabbagetown’s renovated urban oases. Hogwash. In keeping with her down-to-earth mentality, she and Harrison put down roots at Summerland Farm’s 60-acre spread in Cartersville. “It’s my family’s property, and we are the fifth generation to live there. We wanted to preserve it,” Quatrano said. “If you are a responsible chef, you understand the relationship between you and how things grow. It is a huge commitment to raise our own produce and eggs.” Though she and Harrison have been tried-and-true supporters of local growers, she notes that nothing makes her appreciate farmers more than experiencing the job for herself. As if keeping up with herb gardens and fruit trees weren’t trying enough, consider her ever-growing herd of livestock consisting of cows, pigs, goats, chickens, ducks and more.

Though she believes some food bans are a bit unreasonable, she draws the line at poor farming conditions and looks forward to eventually expanding her farm to incorporate more livestock. “If I knew [that an animal was] raised inhumanely, I wouldn’t use it.” Aside from choice free-range meats, organic produce is a mainstay of Quatrano’s cooking. “There is nothing I simply wouldn’t use, except non-seasonal produce. I will only use what is in season.” And most items can be found locally if not at Summerland then at the Farmer’s Market at Morningside, a place Quatrano highly recommends. However, she has been known to stray to the West Coast once in a while, namely for seasonal asparagus from California. “We celebrate it each season as we should,” she laughed.

From Her Kitchen to Yours
With Quatrano and Harrison splitting the time between lunches and dinners in their restaurants, the last thing they want to do when they get home is prepare a lavish meal. Quatrano describes their at-home meals as easy and no-fuss. “Anything at home is the simplest of simple things,” admitting they often make a meal of a bowl of cereal or steamed broccoli. “Clifford loves pbj’s (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches).” Even at her restaurant, she opts for side dishes and accompaniments. But it’s simply a matter of cost. “Never something that is expensive, no center of the plate items for [me.]”

As all of Quatrano’s restaurants feature seasonal produce, the colder months of the year bring dishes peppered with leafy greens and robust root vegetables, and she suggests we try the same in our own kitchens. “People at home are scared of braising greens, but it’s very simple. They’re plentiful and they grow through winter from October to March. Collards, kale, mustards. The process is simple and can be interpreted in many ways. Even vegetable stock can replace pork or chicken. They can be braised in any well-flavored liquid,” she explained. Quatrano proposes amateur chefs find encouragement by stocking their kitchens with great cookbooks like “The Zuni Café Cookbook” by Judy Rogers and Gerald Asher with Mediterranean recipes from Tuscany, Greece and France, as well as Edna Lewis’s “The Taste of Country Cooking” because as Quatrano put it, “Anyone in the South should read it. She covers all that is good in the South.” For Quatrano, inspiration is found in traveling, reading and living simply. “Inspiration is in everything and everywhere, as long as you’re open to it.”

Photos courtesy of Star Provisions

Braised Collard Greens
2 pounds fresh tender young collard greens, de-stemmed
1 prosciutto hock or ham hock
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1⁄2 cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 cup rich chicken stock or vegetable stock
1 dash pepper flakes
Touch of heavy cream or cold butter (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste

In large stockpot, sear prosciutto hock or country ham scraps and sliced garlic. Add vinegar, most of the maple syrup, pepper flakes and 1 quart of water. Bring to boil. Simmer approximately one hour. Adjust seasonings. Blanch collard greens in mixture for 10 to 15 minutes until greens are soft and tender but still green. Remove from stock and allow to cool. Reserve pork stock. To serve, heat 1 cup pot liquor or chicken stock, vinegar, 1 tablespoon maple syrup and salt and pepper to taste. Add optional heavy cream or butter if desired. Add cooked collard greens and serve warm. Serves 4.

Oven Roast Free-Range Chicken with Bread Salad
2 to 3 pounds organic free-range chicken
1 cup kosher salt
1 gallon cold water
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sea salt
Fresh cracked black pepper
4 fresh sage leaves

Dissolve salt in cold water and place rinsed chicken in water. Refrigerate for at least six to eight hours. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Remove from salt water, rinse and dry. Stuff sage leaves under the skin, rub with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place chicken in hot oven and roast for 30 to 45 minutes depending upon weight. To test doneness, puncture hole through skin on leg. If liquid runs clear (not pink), your chicken is done. Remove from oven and let stand for 15 minutes before carving.

Bread Salad
1⁄2 pound arugula, stems trimmed and rinsed
8-by-8 square of foccacia, cut in 1⁄2 inch squares and lightly toasted
1⁄2 cup dried currants, plumped in 1⁄2 cup warm water
1⁄2 cup toasted pine nuts
1 cup champagne vinegar
1 cup reduced chicken stock at room temperature
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced and lightly sautéed in small amount of olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

To make vinaigrette, combine vinegar, chicken stock and sautéed garlic. Slowly whisk in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add pine nuts and currants (drained of liquid). Toss with toasted foccacia. Place in baking dish, cover with foil and bake in 400 degree oven for about 15 minutes. Remove foil and bake for five to 10 more minutes or until browned. Toss with arugula and serve warm with chicken.