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Food for Thought A Taste of Atlanta’s Rising Restaurant Scene
Salad Splendor Tired of choosing between a house, chef and Caesar salad at lunch? Or maybe just wondering how long the lettuce in the salad bar has been sitting under the sneeze guard? There’s a new salad in town, and it’s got your name written all over it. “When I designed the menu at Tossed, I wanted to let customers design their own salad from scratch with more than just your basic lettuce, carrots and tomatoes, which we have. Instead we offer 70 of the freshest ingredients to choose from, including items not often found in salad bars, such as jicama, a Mexican root vegetable, sweet potatoes and kiwi,” said Marc Meisel, executive chef for the latest in fresh and fast restaurants to sprout up on Windward Parkway. But Tossed, a Manhattan-based franchise, is more than just a salad bar. While diners can order their own tossed or wrapped salad creations in one of 24 different dressings, including Black Peppercorn Parmesan, Cucumber Dill, Kalamata Olive or Strawberry Balsamic Vinaigrette, the hip and healthy restaurant also provides a full menu of salads, crepes, sandwiches and hot lunches, all made fresh when ordered. The standards are here, such as the Nicoise, Cobb and Spinach salads, but Meisel has also thrown in more unique collections like the Cayenne Shrimp Salad with spices, avocado, roasted sweet onions, black bean and corn salsa and grape tomatoes in a Citrus Chipotle dressing. Whole-wheat and fat-free crepes wrap chicken, turkey or tofu in other creative combinations with a twist, and tossed melts like Portobello mushrooms, peppers and onions in melted Parmesan cheese are served up piping hot. Smoothies, blended coffee drinks and homemade sweet crepes round out the menu. New Yorkers have been lining around the block in negative-degree weather to get these oversized servings of preservative- and often fat-free selections. Now moving across the country, spurring a slew of copycats that never seem to get it right, Tossed is perfect for Georgia’s warmer, health conscious climate. Luckily, 18 more locations are expected to open throughout the metro Atlanta area, including a Decatur restaurant currently under construction on Ponce de Leon Avenue. Tossed offers a flavorful feast for the palate, whether pressed for time during the weekday lunch hour (try ordering online when you need a salad to go) or taking a breather after a hard workout at the neighboring LA Fitness. You’ll leave full and satisfied, without an ounce of guilt. And, oh yeah, if you still want a Caesar salad? Tossed has that, too. photos courtesy of Lissa Poirot Tossed —Reviewed by Lissa Poirot
Sushi — From Their House to Yours Sushi lovers take heed; Sushi House has arrived. And while it doesn’t look much like a house, it sure feels like home. Open since December, Sushi House Buckhead has quickly become a mainstay among Japanese food and sushi connoisseurs alike. With fresh fish, unique combinations and superior service, why go anywhere else? At Sushi House, Chef Koji Kakuda takes his sushi seriously. Born in Japan and preparing sushi for the past 35 years, Kakuda offers 30 to 40 combinations. While he can create extremely traditional Japanese dishes upon request, Kakuda generally fuses Eastern and Western ingredients in his sauces to acquaint Westerners to the fare. “Our fish is always fresh, but it’s the way we combine it with other ingredients that makes our food stand out,” said Sonny Chau, general manager. “We look for the newest trends in sushi from New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Japan — all over.” Family owned and operated, Sushi House Buckhead is the sister of Sushi House Orlando — rated best sushi in both 2005 and 2006. If its Happy Sumo roll is any indication, the Buckhead eatery may soon follow suit. This signature roll contains salmon, tuna, cucumber, cream cheese, crab and avocado, with sesame and spicy mayo and is flash fried to produce a light tempura crust. If it sounds like a lot, it is. This roll is large; it’s easiest to eat with your fingers, but it’s worth it! Each bite teems with flavor, and the fish is so fresh that there’s barely a need for soy sauce. Another must-try is the Graduation Roll — a California roll wrapped in salmon, scallops, crab and tempura flakes, with cream cheese, spicy mayo and sprinkled with a special chili seasoning — one of Sushi House’s most popular items. Lobster fanatics will love the lobster sashimi, but call a few days in advance, as it’s not offered daily. If you’re not into raw fish, Sushi House also offers the usual miso soup, ginger salad and teriyaki dinners; but, if you’re willing to branch out a little, try the tempura combo platter. The shrimp is so soft that it practically melts in your mouth. The battered vegetables that come with it include some unusual, yet pleasing, choices like sweet potato, too. Although Sushi House is located in an unremarkable strip mall off Peachtree, the atmosphere inside fosters a sense of camaraderie and cheer, and the ample, free parking makes it easy to stop in at any time of the day. Join friends for lychee martinis and cucumber rolls, or just order fried ice cream for dessert. “It’s the combination of all of the elements — the ambience, master chef, friendly service and unique food — that makes us stand out,” Chau said. “You have to come multiple times to try it all.” Have sushi delivered straight to your doorstep, or, if you just can’t get enough (it’s addicting!), you can learn to create sushi at home. Sushi House offers a class, on the third Saturday of each month, to teach enthusiasts to cut fish and roll sushi — allowing you to bring your creations from their home to yours. — Reviewed by Carly Felton Sushi House Buckhead photo courtesy of sushi house buckhead —Reviewed by Lissa Poirot
An A-Fare to Remember Have you ever had a meal so good that the memory of it lingers long after you’ve finished that delicious drive-home conversation recounting the mouthwatering cuisine you just ate? Well, that’s exactly what you’ll get when you visit the Old Mill House Restaurant in Buford. Located right behind the Mall of Georgia, this casual and comfortable restaurant, with its homey surroundings marked by a spacious dining room, amber pendant lights and cozy booths, affords diners a bona fide epicurean adventure by serving up some of the finest fare in Gwinnett County. “Our vision is to offer the people of Gwinnett County a quality dining experience comparable to the upscale restaurants in Buckhead without all of the traffic or stuffiness,” said Executive Chef James Garner, an American Culinary Federation-certified professional who founded Old Mill House Restaurant with business partner Kevin Danko in March 2006. “We offer a relaxed atmosphere that is conducive to both dressing up and remaining casual. And high-quality food prepared by chefs with simple tastes that celebrate that quality is what we focus on.” The restaurant’s extensive menu attests to this fact. According to Garner, the idea behind the wide-ranging selection of aged Angus beef, fish, seafood, chicken, pork and pasta dishes is to offer “something for everybody.” And the well-versed culinary staff has achieved its goal. But before you get to the entrées, you have to partake of as many appetizers as you and your dining companions can handle. The top two starters are not to be missed: Blue Crab Stuffed Mushrooms ($7.99) and Spinach Artichoke Dip with Grilled Pita ($6.99). The former introduces you to some of the best blue crab in town, nestled inside beautifully prepared mushroom caps; the latter is one of the creamiest, full-flavored versions of the popular appetizer I have tasted. You also can try the Fried Pesto Cheese Bites ($6.99), reminiscent of a classic mozzarella stick but with a great twist — the pesto gives these velvety tidbits a hint of flavor that makes them a familiar yet totally innovative opening act. When it comes to the main attraction, there really is something for everyone. From Barbeque Jack Chicken ($12.99) and The Old Mill House Burger ($14.99) to Slow Roasted Baby Back Ribs (half a rack for $12.99, a full rack for $19.99) and Seafood Fettuccini ($15.99), there’s an entrée for every taste bud. There are also some standouts. The Seared Blue Crab Cake in a lemon butter sauce (half order $14.99, full order $24.99), with its copious amounts of crabmeat and no filler, is hearty and satisfying. And after finishing it, you feel like you’ve just returned from the beach. If you’re not a seafood fan, there are plenty of options, including the Blackened Pork Tenderloin in a savory wild mushroom sauce ($16.99), which stays moist and tender thanks to a two-step process of searing and roasting. Then there’s the Black Angus beef, which is aged for 28 days, hand-cut in-house every day and available in everything from a 12-ounce Rib Eye ($17.50) to Slow Roasted Prime Rib (nine ounces for $16.50, 12 ounces for $19.99 and 16 ounces for $25.99). I found the 10-ounce Filet Mignon ($27.50) to be tender, robust and one of the best cuts of meat I’ve had in a long time. And when it’s paired with a baked sweet potato, grilled asparagus or garlic and shallot mashed potatoes, as well as one of Old Mill House Restaurant’s 20 bottled beers or varied wine choices from the fully stocked premium bar, it’s the kind of dish you want to enjoy every day. Just when you think you can’t eat another bite, you find yourself enticed by melt-in-your-mouth homemade desserts. There’s the award-winning Bourbon Pecan Pie, named best dessert in the county by Gwinnett Life magazine. Additionally, there are unique items like the decadent Tiramisu Cheesecake. Desserts periodically are added to the menu, which changes seasonally. While many of the staple dishes remain the same year-round, the menu typically features seasonal items. Whether it’s lunch, brunch, dinner or catered, a meal from Old Mill House Restaurant will leave you reminiscing about it until the next time you visit. Old Mill House Restaurant photos courtesy of old mill house restaurant — Reviewed by Amy Meadows
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