 Summer Whites
The Time is Ripe to Pass Over Red Wines in Favor of Patio-Perfect Whites
[Written By Katie Kelly Bell]
The overall inferno effect of a southern summer requires seasonal strategy in refreshment. Sure, you could cool off with a sugary sweet tea or a tart, icy cold lemonade. But when it comes to having a nice drink that both soothes the palate and brings down your inner body temperature sans the use of skewers of fruit and colorful drink umbrellas, consider a charming, crisp, floral, zippy white wine. Wine is a libation that does a wonderful job with seasonality — reds heat us up in the winter, whites cool us down in the summer. Sitting by a steamy poolside does not make one hanker for a spicy Shiraz or complex Cabernet Sauvignon. Points North tested a variety of white grapes to pair with an Atlanta summer. You may find a few familiar faces and some offbeat selections to experiment with, so gussy up the patio, invite some friends over and toast the white season.
German Rieslings
The best place to start any conversation about hot weather wines is Germany, home of Riesling. The days of sweet, sappy wines such as Blue Nun are mercifully behind us. In truth, Riesling is an elegant grape with enormous range in taste. There are crisp, steely, dry versions of the grape that make an ideal quaffing wine on a hot day and there are honeyed, rich versions that can hold their own with a steak dinner in the dead of winter. Johannes Selbach, winemaker for Selbach Oster wines, Zeltingen, Germany, noted with pride that, “a well-made Riesling has the ability to age 30 to 50 years if treated correctly.”
Rieslings have seen a surge in popularity, with sales increasing 25 percent over the last year, more than any other white varietals according to the Nielson’s Annual Beverage Report. The reason? Its versatility. “The range of the varietal is so dramatic, you can enjoy it dry, a bit sweet, aged or as a dessert wine,” explained George Millotes, wine director for the Seasons 52 restaurant. “I’m a Riesling fanatic. I’ll have a bottle of Riesling open in my fridge all summer long. It’s light, low in alcohol and a perfect way to start the weekend. It’s my opening salvo to any evening.”
If you are just starting out with a Riesling, you may prefer to try a drier version. In Germany, these are labeled Kabinett, which refers to the amount of natural sugar in the wine. Kabinett is a high-quality wine with a minimum of natural sugar and is therefore typically dry. When reading a German label it’s critical to look for the quality distinction: ‘Qualitatswein Mit Pradikat’ is an indication that the wine has not been given added sugar or blended with some other grape.
Selbach Oster Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, 2005, $15
Selbach-Oster is consistently ranked by the press as one of Germany’s top-rated wine estates. Balanced with lovely rich fruit, a tinge of honey and a nice snappy finish, this wine has the whole package.
Huff Niersteiner Rosenberg Kabinett, 2005, $15
Refreshing and crisp with notes of peaches and a tinge of honey, this is a classic example of how elegant and delicious a Riesling can be.
Lamont, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2005, $22
Yes, it is not from Germany, but the aromas of orange blossom, lemon and a hint of lime make this elegant wine worthy of cellaring (up to 10 years if you’re patient.)
If Riesling doesn’t tickle your taste buds, try these other popular white wines this summer …
 Greek Chardonnays
If you tend to gravitate toward the lush taste and richness of Chardonnay but are ready for something a bit more exotic try an Assyrtiko. A native grape from the island of Santorini, Assyrtiko is remarkable for its high alcohol and high acidity, making it an excellent food wine. The volcanic soils of the island (where some vines are 150 years in age) help to produce robust, rich wines. Most versions have abundant richness and butter with accompanying minerality and structure. Some vintners craft their Assyrtiko with oak aging, which adds more bang to the wine’s overall body, while others use no oak. The contrast between an oak-aged Assyrtiko and one aged in stainless steel is remarkable, so buy one of each and decide for yourself which one suits your palate.
Boutari Kallisti, 2005, $23
Round with apple and peach aromas, vanilla and a buttery roundness. Chardonnay lovers will enjoy this Greek version, aged in oak.
Boutari Santorini 2005, $22
Dry, crisp and minerally, with hints of exotic fruits. Aged in stainless steel and a fine example of how versatile this grape can be.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs
As is the case with so many white varietals, Sauvignon Blanc has a broad range of styles; depending on climate and winemaker preferences. For hot sweltering afternoons, a glass by the pool, or an evening at Chastain, you’ll want to stick to the racier New Zealand style of this wine. The New Zealanders have a climate conducive to growing a racy, bracing style of this grape: abundant sun, cool nights, low autumn rains and free draining alluvial soils. The wines are zippy and acidic, brimming with lemon, mineral and grapefruit qualities. High acidity in these wines makes them quite dynamic with a wide variety of foods such as tomato-based garlicky dishes or a platter of smoked salmon and cheese.
Piko, Marlborough, 2006, $14
Grapefruit aromas dominate, with pepper and a zippy, re-
freshing finish.
Nobilo Icon, Marlborough, 2006, $16
Also rich with red grapefruit aromas, lemon, lime and some tropical notes.
Broman, Napa Valley, 2006, $18
Lots of lemon and a touch of cream. This is a softer, less bracing style of Sauvignon Blanc, ideal for those who prefer a wine with less bite.
Oregon Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris (also known as Pinot Grigio) is actually a mutation of its ancestor, Pinot Noir. Oregon is already highly regarded for its Pinot Noir and is now making a name for itself with its outstanding Pinot Gris. The pitch perfect combination of warm summer days, cool evenings and proper northern latitude make Oregon the place to grow Pinot Gris. Italian versions tend to have a reputation for delicate, lemony, almost feather light qualities; Oregon’s style tends to have a bit more bang to it. Many of Oregon’s wines boast a beautiful pinkish tinge, aromas of melons, peaches and cream and a nice roundness. Not as bracing as Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is ideal if you who prefer a wine with less zip and bite. Try one with a grilled wild salmon and a splash of a light dill sauce on the side.
King Estate Domaine, 2005, $22
Rich with peaches and cream, this full-bodied wine is brimming with layers of tropical fruits and a hint of spice.
Eyrie, 2005, $15
Ripe with vanilla, cream and citrus, this is a marvelous wine.
Elk Cove, 2005, $19
More floral than the other two, this wine also has loads of citrus and a round rich finish. PN
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