Points North | October 2007
[ Written By Julie Clark ]

Hiking under a lush canopy of russet leaves in the Smithgall Woods Conservation Area near Helen, Ga., one can scarcely imagine that this land once resembled a barren wasteland, bereft of life. But like the seasons, what was once dormant springs back to life again, thanks to the healing hand of Mother Nature … and a man named Charles Smithgall Jr.

When this area in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Georgia belonged to the Cherokee, trees stretched to the sky and the water ran clear. But by 1829, miners looking for gold began their search at Dukes Creek and by the 1850s hydraulic mining was introduced to the area, causing vast devastation to the surrounding environment. It turned this once fertile ground into a barren desert. Luckily, Georgia was one of the first states to note the crisis, and banned hydraulic mining in the late 1880s. The territory began to slowly heal from its wounds, but later the railroad lured in the logging companies, who began stripping trees off the mountainside and the destruction renewed. At the turn of the century, the state began purchasing land for preservation but it took a Georgia Tech alumnus with a love of the outdoors to ensure this place would enjoy springtime once more.

As the founder of the Gainesville Times and owner of other media outlets, Smithgall used his success in life to fund numerous local charitable endeavors, including purchasing some 5,500 acres of desolate land. He spent more than $20 million of his own money to restore the area to its former glory and built charming mountain retreats to be enjoyed by his entire family. In 1994, Smithgall donated half the value of the land and his family cottages to the state of Georgia so they could preserve it for the enjoyment of future generations. The state showed their gratitude by naming this place the Smithgall Woods Conservation Area and ensured the woods maintained the integrity it once held when Cherokee roamed the forest.

As you inch your car slowly and deeply into the conservation area, you will come upon The Lodge at Smithgall Woods, a luxurious, yet rustic, retreat nesting in the heart of Smithgall Woods, just moments from miles of hiking trails and some of the best trout fishing in the country. Accommodations are available for up to 28 guests, ideal for romantic getaways, family vacations, reunions or even business retreats. The lodge is actually a cluster of Smithgall’s five charming family cottages, which overall contain 14 bedrooms that offer guests a private bath, telephone, cable TV and wireless Internet, so while you are communing with the natural world, you can stay in touch with the man-made one … only if you wish, of course.

The lodge is ideal for large groups, as those who rent 10 or more rooms have exclusive use of the entire lodge. (For Sunday through Thursday reservations, there is a six-room minimum requirement.) Individual rooms, however, are available on Friday and Saturday nights. Prepare your taste buds for a slice of heaven, as nightly lodge rates include both dinner and breakfast prepared by the lodge’s esteemed chef, Mac Parks. (Stay two nights, and lunch is added to the plate.) And the best news is, a portion of room revenues funds the Smithgall Woods Foundation, so your vacation will also help protect these idyllic woods into perpetuity. Depending on the season and number of guests, rates range from $189 to $349 per night. Fall is one of the most popular times at Smithgall Woods, so make reservations early. www.smithgallwoods.com.

Helen’s Oktoberfest: While Helen is a hoot anytime of year, this little town that resembles a small Bavarian village is alive and kicking for Oktoberfest. In fact, they have so much fun, Helen’s Oktoberfest has become one of the biggest parties in the Southeast and lasts for two months from Sept. 13 through Nov. 4. German bratwurst, polka dancing and, of course, beer await. www.helenga.org

Nora Mill Grist Mill & Country Store: Want grits? You will feel like a kid in a candy shop at Nora Mill Granary Grist Mill & Country Store built in 1876 along the Chattahoochee River. Stock up on southern staples such as biscuit and gravy mixes, old-fashioned candy, moonshine soap (or Georgia peach soap, if you prefer), jams, jellies, and all the stone-ground grits you could ever hope to drench in butter or syrup! www.noramill.com

The Gourd Place: Just five miles from Helen in Sautee, the The Gourd Place is a whimsical shop and museum famous in these parts for offering some of the most exquisite creations made from, you guessed it, gourds. The Gourd Girls, owners Janice Lymburner and Priscilla Wilson, as they’re affectionately known, offer a variety of products made or inspired from gourds, from the “sublime to the ridiculous.” My personal favorite is the delicately beautiful ceramic Gourd Impressions line developed by Priscilla. Although it may sound silly to a passerby, the museum is well worth a whirl. It’s free to the public and showcases an exotic collection of 200 gourd creations from 23 countries. www.gourdplace.com

Fall Festivities: Fall color abounds this month, making hikes and bike riding along the 22 miles of Smithgall Woods’ roads and trails a special treat. Fall Friday Hikes run from Oct. 5 to Dec. 14 from 9 to 11 a.m. During this special tour, a van will take guests to hiking trails in the conservation area where guides lead tours through the colorful fall foliage. Also, Smithgall Woods’ Fall Celebration on Oct. 20 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. includes a full day of mountain music, craft vendors, hayrides through the park, pioneer skill exhibits and tasty apple cider from a hand-cranked press.

Commune with Nature: For outdoorsmen, Dukes Creek is the place for catch-and-release trout fishing for trophy-size brown and rainbow trout, and has been voted “One of the Top 100 Trout Streams in the U.S.” by Trout Unlimited conservation organization. Hunting is also allowed in the conservation area, but as with trout fishing, reservations are required. If you prefer to simply observe wildlife instead of track it, the area is a bird-watching paradise and is a year-round home to red-tailed hawks, mourning doves, red-headed woodpeckers and even wild turkeys. For the adventurous explorer, the nearby Appalachian Trail and Brasstown Bald, the highest peak in Georgia, offer stunning fall views and are ripe for exploration. www.appalachiantrail.org

The Folk Pottery Museum of Northeast Georgia: Just celebrating its one-year anniversary, this museum elegantly showcases this grassroots art form and explores the history of handmade folk pottery in southern life. In celebration of its first anniversary, the museum is hosting a one-year exhibition on North Carolina pottery, considered the forefather of many of North Georgia’s potters. After perusing over their own diverse collection (including a 600-year-old Nacoochee Mound Native-American bowl on special loan from the Smithsonian), you can also learn more about the Folk Potter’s Trail that details a driving tour of area potters so you can see this art form in action. And don’t overlook their museum boutique in the back, where beautiful art pieces for great prices are in store for you. www.folkpotterymuseum.com

Ride the Wine Highway: If you want to taste the fruits of nature, then drive down North Georgia’s Wine Highway for a cornucopia of quaint wineries. Thanks to some of the steepest and well-drained hills that grace the nation, North Georgia offers a wide variety of delectable potables. We recommend a bottle of the 2004 ACE - A Family Reserve, BlackStock Vineyards’ signature blended dry red wine. Check out nearby budding wineries such as BlackStock Vineyards, Frogtown Cellars and Wolf Mountain Vineyards in Dahlonega or Habersham Winery in Helen. www.georgiawine.com

Dining at the Lodge at Smithgall Woods: You don’t have to go far, just mosey downstairs from your room or take a short stroll from one of the adjacent cottages to the cozy dining room, replete with a snug sitting area, roaring fireplace and family-style dining tables. Here, you can feast creekside, toasting a mint julep, while Chef Mac Parks whips up some gourmet Blue Ridge “High Country” cuisine using off-the-farm fresh local ingredients. The house specialty is mouth-watering mountain trout but I simply must insist you request his famous shrimp and grits, as they are indeed, “better than mama’s.” The veggies you feast on are plucked right out of the lodge’s onsite flower and vegetable garden and lunches can be packed into a picnic, so you can invite Mother Nature to join you for afternoon tea.

The Smithgall Woods Conservation Area near Helen, Ga., is just over an hour from the Atlanta metro area by car. Directions from I-85 and GA 400 are available online. For more information, please call 800-318-5248 or visit www.smithgallwoods.com.

While the popular (and congested) Anna Ruby Falls is a short drive a way, there is something to be said for a waterfall off the beaten path where you can reflect on nature’s bounty in solitude. After a short hike from the Lodge at Smithgall Woods, I could hear the rushing of water from a distance and soon came upon Dukes Creek Falls. A wooden boardwalk allows stunning views from both the bottom of the falls and farther up near its tumultuous source. As you listen to the torrents of water cascading to the rocks below, you can imagine that it looks much the same as it did when the Cherokee people scoured its waters for their evening meal. And to think, this oasis in this towering forest was once compared to a Western desert! It just proves once more that life springs eternal.