Points North | November 2007

[ Written By Lissa Poirot ]
Photography courtesy of Lissa Poirot

Once upon a time, Ft. Lauderdale, Fla., was renowned for its wild spring breaks, first immortalized in the 1960 film, “Where the Boys Are.” Ft. Lauderdale’s “Strip” certainly fulfilled Spring Break fantasies for me during my high school and college youth. The city, realizing its image as Spring Break Capital wasn’t entirely good for residents and business, made changes to laws that led to the closing of the bars lining the Strip — those advertising two-for-one drink specials and bikini contests. The ramshackle, two-story hotels along A1A, aka Beachfront Avenue, could no longer persuade 20-somethings to pile into tiny rooms, paying top dollar for beer-stained floors and bug-occupied bathrooms. Thank goodness, and
good riddance.

After years of quiet rebirth, Ft. Lauderdale is now welcoming a new group of travelers to its long stretches of sandy beaches: families. One by one, dive hotels have been demolished and in their place, towering luxury high-rise hotels with names like Trump, W, St. Regis and Hilton leading the charge (all featuring rooms with expansive ocean views). Where dive bars once stood, beachfront restaurants with patios allow for casual dining in swimsuits, but without sacrificing quality, freshness or service. Nothing entices families like a beach, and the warm Atlantic and three miles of beach inspire sand castle building, body surfing and wave running along its shores, as well as deep-sea excursions for the fisherman and scuba diver. Around the corner, Las Olas beckons as a Mediterranean-inspired shopping, dining and art mecca. From upscale boutiques to galleries filled with oils to French and Italian restaurants, the shady street is nothing like the image of old Ft. Lauderdale. This is the new Ft. Lauderdale, and it’s just a two-hour flight away. So head to the beach for fun with the family and rediscover its charm.

Hilton Beach Resort. The first and tallest of the new high-rise hotels, the Hilton is one of the group’s luxury lines. Providing 333 rooms with outstanding views of the ocean and its 6th-floor heated pool, the resort caters to the family not willing to sacrifice quality when traveling with children. Bathed in deep mahogany and nautical blues, this hip hotel has a European vibe (maybe it has something to do with its eclectic management staff of employees from around the globe), while providing a fun-filled day for kids 6 to 15 in its Ocean Adventures and Ocean Explorers clubs, with activities like “Hook the Future Fishing Clinics” and Tuesday Family Days, while mom and dad lounge on poolside beds. Rates start at $159. www.hilton.com

St. Regis Resort. Not quite the hotel for younger kids, the 187-room St. Regis oozes class and style with creamy rooms overlooking the ocean and intercoastal. An 85,000-square-foot spa “seduces” guests, while a wine room, pool bar and elegant Cero seafood restaurant seduces the palate. www.starwoodhotels.com

Rejuvenate in a luxury spa or poolside cabana. Spa-hop the new hotels and sample massage, wraps, facials and nail services such as Double Harmony facial with reflexology and Sea Silk body exfoliation treatment and massage at the Hilton Resort’s Spa Q, or better yet, order a poolside massage in your own private cabana. www.hilton.com

Charter a private yacht. Ride the intercoastal aboard your own private boat, watching the sunset behind the downtown skyline and European-style mansions while dining al fresco to a culinary treat prepared by your own private chef. www.charter1now.com

Museum of Discovery and Science. Quite possibly one of the best children’s interactive museums in the country, this family destination isn’t just an oversized playground but a place for children and their parents to actually explore, investigate and learn through exhibits like Runways to Rockets, Gizmo City and Choose Health. www.mods.org

Bonnet House Museum and Gardens. Along the Strip, tucked away behind dense foliage, is an interesting bit of Ft. Lauderdale history. The Bonnet House was designed and constructed by Frederick Bartlett on the property given to him by his father-in-law after his marriage to Helen Birch. Upon Helen’s untimely death, Bartlett was remarried to Evelyn Fortune Lilly, and the house became the winter home of the pair of eccentric art collectors until Evelyn’s death at 109 years of age in 1997. While the house and grounds make for an interesting tour, request a guided tour to really learn the history of the land and the family who called it home. www.bonnethouse.org

Shop Las Olas Boulevard. Stroll through art galleries like Saba Gallery, with its focus on French art, and shop intimate boutiques like Moda Mario, with Italian flair, while the kids paint their own pottery at Joe Picasso (where you can also grab a cup ‘o Joe in a comfortable, couch-filled setting). www.lasolasboulevard.com

The growing horde of condos as well as the private islands off the 17th Street Causeway — which are where some of South Florida’s wealthiest residents live — means an influx of restaurants. While restaurants are popping up along A1A, Beachfront Avenue, including those found at the chic new condo hotels, the best eats are still to be found on Ft. Lauderdale’s artistic Las Olas Boulevard. Amble down the street, meandering in and out of boutiques and art galleries, until you’ve built up an appetite and determined which intimate café will whet your appetite, from La Bonne Crepe’s delicious breakfast of, what else, crepe dishes to delish seafood at Johnny V’s to steaks and pasta at Timpano Italian Chophouse. www.lasolasboulevard.com

Although Ft. Lauderdale’s waves can get choppy at times, they have never served as competition to those found in Hawaii or Australia. Still, Certified Master Surf Instructor Kali “da Big Kahuna” Montero hopes to bring the sport made popular in his native Hawaii to the family-friendly Atlantic beaches. I’ve never been on a surfboard in my life (that’s me in the hat), and neither have the other three daring souls who braved the beach at sunrise for a lesson. We brought on quite a few chuckles from locals out for a morning run, often stopping to catch a glimpse of us as we learned the basics of pushing into a stand on a board — the key is to jump directly to your feet and never push off with a knee, the surefire guarantee that you’ll fall in the surf. After a few practice runs on the sand, we carried our boards into the ocean, hopped aboard (pun intended) and waited for the perfect wave. Although I fell far too many times to count, I can proudly say that I did ride two waves into shore. Incredibly challenging, surfing was also incredibly exhilarating. Give it a try on your visit! www.bigkahunasurf.com