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Viva Italia Ya’ll
Local Italian Eateries Are Redefining Comfort Food in the South A sk a native Atlantan to name his or her preferred comfort food and you might expect a recitation of soul food favorites like country fried steak and collards, or Southern signatures like fried chicken and home made apple pie. But as our city has become more metropolitan, we have attracted an increasing number of transplants from towns north of the Mason-Dixon Line, from cities like New York, Chicago, Boston; places with vast international communities and scads of first-generation families. Ask one of your new northern neighbors to tell you his or her comfort food favorites, and those aforementioned all-American classics are bound to be further down, if not altogether missing, from the list. That’s not to say that we Southerners have the corner on go-to meals. The ingredients employed by these recent settlers might be different, but the notion of feel-good food isn’t completely lost in translation. Italian food in particular has nudged its way into American gastronomic traditions. Chef Boyardee was perhaps the first to introduce us to pasta and tomato sauce, a.k.a. spaghetti and meatballs, and chances are your mom knew how to make a killer lasagna. I’d be willing to bet serious dough that your softball team celebrated big wins at your local pizza parlor. Thankfully, the new Southern migration brings bold international flavor to Atlanta’s food scene and our renewed interest in Italian fare is redefining what we consider classic comfort food. Here are several of Atlanta’s best bets for enjoying a bona fide Italian meal.
Southern Comfort When it comes to cooking, Italy makes the most of its climate and each region yields its own culinary treasures. In Southern cities like Calabria, where warm weather is extended due to long summer months, chefs utilize plentiful vine-ripened tomatoes to create spicy red sauces. Restaurateur George Ippolito’s family venture started with two restaurants in Connecticut, which were inspired by frequent trips to nearby New York City’s Italian districts. Like New York itself, “Atlanta has become a hub for transient folks who are used to their neighborhood authentic Italian restaurants,” Ippolito said. There are now six metro Atlanta Ippolito’s restaurants, all of which prepare time-honored family recipes and what he promises to be “…from scratch, authentic, traditional Southern-Italian dishes.” The mozzarella caprese joins fresh mozzarella, made in-house, with tomato and basil while homemade red sauces feature prominently in zesty entrées such as the tasty chicken and eggplant parmigiana. If you’re in the mood for delicious, no-frills Italian food let BiBa’s satisfy your hunger. Owner Krist Biba might be more interested in quality than ambience, but BiBa’s has its own charm. This down-to-earth diner has found a following in patrons that want to get more bang for their buck. The rigatoni putanesca with anchovies, capers and marinara pleases Italian food enthusiasts while the linguine fra diavolo is a spicy alternative to your typical plate of pasta. Four locations serve the northern suburbs, and the menu also offers plenty of Italian-American options like subs, pizzas, calzones and a scrumptious warm chicken salad with shitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes and balsamic vinaigrette. Of course, you can’t leave without trying a tiramisu that’s yummy enough to feel like a splurge rather than the steal it is. For a Sicilian feast, check out Lucia’s where convention meets innovation. Owner Tim Collesano calls on the kitchen wizardry of his Italian mother, who is also the restaurant’s namesake, and surprises guests with unexpected substitutions like hardy lasagna with tender ground veal. Though this family’s escape from New York happened several years ago, they’ve noticed a shift in the winds of Atlanta’s population and have been known to tweak their menu to meet the requests of their customers. Collesano recalls a recent guest who asked for a braciolone, a dish of thinly sliced beef rolled with hard boiled egg that might be well-known in Sicily, but is nearly unheard of elsewhere. “Five years ago we couldn’t have given it away,” Collesano laughed. But supply must meet demand and Lucia’s was more than willing to oblige. “Italian food has a level of comfort to it with warm pastas, meats, cheeses, fresh breads,” he explained. Those with less adventurous appetites will take comfort in the flavorsome chicken picatta with capers and lemon butter sauce.
Northern Exposure Because the fertile plains of Northern Italy cultivate abundant crops and healthy cattle, most recipes feature beef, pork and dairy products. Expect rich cream sauces and satisfying, aromatic stews in addition to the fresh catches yielded by the North’s copious lakes and waterways. Susan Thill, owner of di Paolo Restaurant has fashioned a strip mall shop into a posh neighborhood gathering place. She admits people are often surprised by the location, but once they’ve found it, they’re bound to return. Top rated by Zagat for the past four years, di Paolo is a delicate balance of elegance and ease, and the food is achingly good. Thill’s warmth and hospitality is echoed in di Paolo’s décor and overall vibe. Lighting is key, and small sconces and votives highlight the dark wood and clever artwork throughout. Each artfully presented dish is an interesting take on Italian, like the trota incrostato, a citrus-encrusted mountain trout with vegetables in a reduction of rosemary and white wine. The polenta fritti, a close European cousin to the grit, will particularly appeal to Southerners. Part of the piccolo piatti (small plates) menu, it’s a small stack of lightly fried hominy patties topped with vibrant sweet peppers and tangy Gorgonzola cheese crumbles. Sedate your inner child with the best cheesecake of your life replete with mandarin oranges and a graham cookie. Southerners have long ago allowed marinara and spaghetti to cross their comfort food borders, and now more exotic dishes are flooding the gates. “The palate in the South has become so much more refined,” said Michel Arnette, owner of Valenza. “With the influx of transplants, there is a commitment today to be authentic.” Armed with 25 years of experience in the restaurant business, and having lived in Italy, Arnette knows something about authenticity. Valenza’s cozy café setting summons the spirit of the Old World with decorative touches like a restored antique church pulpit, and intoxicating herbal aromas escaping the kitchen. Chef Matt Swickerath’s menu devotedly represents Northern Italy’s farming culture with a quaglia (quail) appetizer, and braised meats like the ossobuco, a slow cooked veal shank accompanied by smooth saffron risotto. It’s like a chic Italian makeover for the meat and potatoes crowd. Come to Veni Vidi Vici, see the menu and conquer your meal. Chef Jamie Adams received training in some of Italy’s finest restaurants and he has earned awards for his talents in Atlanta’s kitchens. His knack for creating plates that are simple yet superlative allows you to savor each item’s indigenous flavor, without wading through unnecessary sauces or superfluous garnishes. The tenderness of the lamb chops is punctuated by a well-designed mint pesto and a creamy eggplant stew. The rich spinach and ricotta gnocchi malfatti does its part to integrate Northern Italy with the American South. Apparently Italians ease their woes with a steamy helping of dumplings, too. If you think you need a little chicken to go with them, you’ll appreciate the resident rotisserie, where poultry and game are roasted to perfection. Coastal and Central Italy The unrestrained Italian coastline grants all the treasures of the sea from shrimp and shellfish to mussels and calamari, while Central Italy’s long summers and frigid winters promote bountiful greens and grains like spinach and risotto. If you want it, Trattoria La Strada has it. All things Italian can be found here, but seafood is their specialty. Steamed mussels, pine nut scallops and crab cakes with Tuscan bean salad are only the beginning. Soft shell crab season is a fête at La Strada and they prepare it perfectly every time. Unusual Mediterranean treats you might find along the Amalfi coast like calamalone, lightly battered medallions of calamari steak, are a fun way to whet your appetite. Large parties are easily accommodated, which is a good thing considering La Strada’s reputation for great food and its relaxed atmosphere makes it a family favorite. For comprehensive Italian delight, tuck in to Sotto Sotto’s seasonal carte du jour. Borrowing elements from Italy’s warmer regions for the summer menu and from colder climates in winter, the menu is a virtual culinary map of Italy. Richard Ullio, owner of Sotto Sotto, Fritti, Beleza and Cuerno restaurants, is from Milan and brings to the table his knowledge of delectable Italian provisions. “Every dish is properly prepared, made well and according to Italian sensibility,” Ullio said. Audiences agree, seeing that Sotto Sotto has earned critical acclaim and been voted “best of” by magazine readers for consecutive years. Some signature items are in demand year round including sea scallops with white cannellini beans. Sotto Sotto’s mood is gracefully rustic and quite unique to Atlanta. Christopher and Michele Sedgwick made a name for themselves with the success of Van Gogh’s (now Bistro VG) and now Vinny’s on Windward carries on their tradition of upscale environments and fabulous fare, though the setting is a bit more contemporary-casual (note: the cool artwork is available for purchase) than the exclusive lodge look of their original venture. Vinny’s is where “new traditions are created every day” by Chef Brian Kibler who whips up Italian-inspired American classics from an impeccable rosemary glazed Black Angus rib-eye steak to a velvety vanilla ice cream float enlivened with espresso and chocolate panino, which is best described as a decadent mini dessert sandwich. As if we needed to be convinced that Atlantans are as hip as Angelinos, we now have proof. The star-studded enterprise Dolce Enoteca makes an appearance at Atlantic Station with a plush and polished dining area worthy of the Playboy Mansion. Though sleek and sexy, Dolce is more than just a pretty face. “There aren’t many places in Atlanta with a great scene that also serves great food to match,” said Lonnie Moore, partner, The Dolce Group. “One of the most important parts of Italian cooking is maintaining a freshness — that is what draws true Italian foodies to Dolce,” Moore explained. The Love Bruschetta with prosciutto and fresh fig compote is indulgent while the spaghetti is equally extraordinary with seasoned sausage and Chef Don’s grandma’s “gravy.” If you don’t have your own Italian grandmother’s recipe, this is well worth a try. After all, there’s nothing more comforting than an Italian family tradition, especially when you make it your own. PN
Noshworthy Notes “Pazzi for Pasta” happens every Sunday evening at Veni Vidi Vici and if you’re “crazy for pasta” this is a deal you won’t want to miss. Dinner includes a taste of five antipasti dishes and four pastas for just $25; menu changes weekly. Visit di Paolo on Sundays to receive half-off certain bottles of wine. On Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m., you can experience an Italian-style happy hour with “Comfort Under the Tuscan Sun.” Enjoy homemade pasta and salad for only $10. Kid-friendly La Strada allows little ones to eat free Monday through Wednesday nights. Adults can also save a buck by printing out a BOGO coupon at www.lastradaatl.com. Allegro opened its doors in October and features a rotating menu of Central Italian cuisine created by Executive Chef Jose Rego. Sample their house Tuscan wine in November. For more information, please call 404-888-1890.
For More Information
Biba’s Italian Restaurant Di Paolo Restaurant Dolce Enoteca e Ristorante Ippolito’s Italian Restaurant Lucia’s Italian Restaurant Sotto Sotto Restaurant Trattoria La Strada Valenza Veni Vidi Vici Vinny’s on Windward
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