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Changing the Way We Think About Our Food As Thanksgiving nears, many of us will adorn our tables with the traditional Horn of Plenty. This year, take a moment to look at that cornucopia, overflowing with a variety of fruits, vegetables and grains, and think about those fresh foods spilling out before you. In the past, those harvested items were as natural as the earth made them. Today, however, much of the food we eat daily is different than the pure sustenance of bygone days. It may look the same, but the way it’s grown has changed dramatically. And showing us how to get back to eating that more wholesome food is part of the overriding mission at Georgia Organics, Inc. (GO). “We are a nonprofit, membership-based organization working to introduce healthy, sustainable and locally grown foods into the lives of all Georgians,” said Alice Rolls, executive director. For the organization, that means encouraging people to look within their own communities to find local sources that offer organic foods or use sustainable growing practices in the cultivation of their crops. It’s a challenging undertaking, given that the most convenient food to buy is what you find on the shelves and in the bins at the grocery store – and the majority of that food derives from an agricultural system that concentrates on producing as much long-lasting food as possible for the masses. However, by educating consumers about the benefits of choosing to eat locally grown organics, as well as teaching local farmers about organic growing practices, GO is not only helping to redefine people’s diets, but also the country’s conventional food production system. Why Go Organic? “The foods that we see in the grocery stores are bred for transportation, not for taste or variety,” Rolls explained. “Tomatoes are the classic example. The typical tomato has been bred so that it could be dropped off of the shelf and wouldn’t bruise or break. So, we’ve become more efficient in our global food system, but the focus is on top value versus top quality.” Unfortunately, achieving that value typically means producing foods that have been genetically modified or exposed to chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides during the growing process. Research collected by GO reveals that roughly 75 percent of processed foods in the United States contain genetically modified ingredients. What’s more, monocropping, or the practice of planting specific types of crops instead of a diversified lot, results in one billion pounds of toxic pesticide application annually. In fact, agricultural runoff is the No. 1 pollutant of rivers in this country. Conversely, foods featuring the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) organic label are guaranteed to be at least 95 percent free of the chemicals commonly used in conventional crop cultivation. And sustainable food, which is not necessarily organic but follows the same principles, is grown in a holistic fashion, taking into account the health of the soil, plants and animals on the surrounding land and using natural resources and biodiversity to enrich the crops. “It’s a dance between science and art,” asserted Lynn Pugh, owner of Cane Creek Farm, a sustainable farm in Cumming. “It’s amazing how nature takes care of itself. If you just aid nature and those soil organisms that release nutrients, then they’re going to provide fertility for the plants. It’s about building the soil naturally and not using chemicals.” While it has not been proven that organic food is healthier for you, there are several benefits to seeking out and buying organic and sustainable products from local farms. “Quality and freshness are huge factors,” Rolls noted. “People like to buy from farmers or go to farmers’ markets because the food has been picked the day before, and it just tastes better. Food loses its quality and its nutritional value over time.” And that ultimately translates into a money issue. It’s true that organic food typically costs more, but it’s important to consider the costs in relative terms. “When I go out and buy $50 worth of vegetables, that food is going to last – it’s not going to turn to mush in my refrigerator in two days,” she continued. “How much food do you waste when you’re buying [produce] from the grocery store that’s been shipped 1,500 or 5,000 miles from another country? You might pay more [for organics], but the food is so good that you’re more likely to eat it and not let it rot. It’s going to last a long time.” Furthermore, according to Suzanne Welander, Georgia Organics’ communications and outreach director, organic food production is generally better for the environment, as it keeps toxins out of the air and the water supply. And in North Georgia, where sprawl is an ever-growing concern, supporting small local farms not only ensures that they stay in business and continue to feed the local economy, but that they also are able to preserve the wide-open greenspace that makes the area so naturally beautiful and eco-friendly. Pugh concurred, stating, “People like having farms around, but if they don’t support them, they then won’t continue to be around. [Buying locally grown food] is one way that people can make a difference in the world and do their part to help the environment.”
Plugging People In What began in the 1970s as a grassroots growers association, Georgia Organics officially established itself as a nonprofit organization in 1997. Since its earliest days, it has been dedicated to grower education, striving to provide farmers with the resources they need to learn how to grow organic and sustainable food efficiently and effectively. For example, the association’s annual conference is the largest organic and sustainable agriculture event in the state, attracting nearly 600 farmers, consumers and agricultural and culinary professionals to attend 30 workshops about everything from specialty crops to cooking with organic ingredients. GO also offers a farmer-to-farmer mentoring program throughout the year that pairs new, emerging or transitioning farmers with experienced organic and sustainable growers. “This is really the best way for them to learn. They go to those farms and learn directly from someone who has a lot of experience. They get to see how things work first-hand,” Rolls said. That insight, coupled with the publications and online resources GO offers, has created a community of farmers that are both willing and able to advance the organic food movement in North Georgia. And to keep that community viable into the future, the organization created a curriculum that has been distributed to all high school agriculture educators in the state. “The average age of a farmer is somewhere in the 50s, so we’ve got to get young people farming. We need to get them to stay on the farm and continue farming in this manner,” she added. Fortunately, the University of Georgia is following suit with the initiative by applying to have an organic agricultural degree added to its academic catalog. Of course, the consumer will also play a major role in the evolution of organic farming. The more demand there is for organic and sustainable foods, the more chance there is that they’ll make their way into the mainstream. However, that will take some time. “The good news is that organic food is becoming more accessible – it’s the fastest growing sector of the food industry,” Rolls observed. “But availability is still a bit of a problem.” That’s why GO has expanded its scope, finding ways to get the public plugged in to the local organic and sustainable marketplace. A key channel for doing this is the Local Food Guide, which lists organic farms, farmers’ markets, grocers, retailers, community gardens and Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) outlets. The guide is updated as often as possible to keep the information current because, as Welander explained, “For those who are interested in eating organically, this is a great resource for getting connected with the best possible food right around you.” Georgia Organics also offers public farm tours, an organic living series and other programs like Pugh’s intensive eight-week class for people who are interested in learning about organic farming and gardening, taught at Cane Creek Farm. And GO is active in farm-to-school programs, which introduces children to the concepts of farming and healthy eating by encouraging the planting and cultivating of school gardens and the serving of organic and sustainable foods in the lunchroom. “We need to get away from the junk food and the processed food,” Rolls said. “We like to tell people to eat lower on the marketing chain. If you eat lower on the marketing chain, then chances are you’re eating the more wholesome foods that you should be eating.” Promoting Change “When you buy organic, you’re voting with your dollar. You’re saying, ‘I want my food grown in this manner.’ And there’s this trickle down effect into the whole movement,” Rolls declared. “We need to be putting more resources, research and otherwise, into this effort. So by voting with your dollar, you can help change agriculture.” That type of vote is also driving the changes being seen in the 2007 Farm Bill, which has passed the House and will be debated in the Senate. As Rolls explained, the Farm Bill establishes the country’s food policy for five years. Historically, it was designed to ensure that the country always had food. However, over time, the fiscal incentives provided by the government, which tend to cater to large farms that grow commodities, have actually had a negative effect on the agricultural system; from 1993 to 2000, 33,000 farms in the United States with annual sales of less than $100,000 disappeared. “The Farm Bill identifies where we’re putting our emphasis on our food system. And right now, the emphasis is on soybeans, corn, rice and cotton. We’re sinking our dollars into commodity subsidies and not thinking about nutrition and health,” Rolls said. “But we are seeing some positive changes this year, and hopefully we’ll be able to crack that big agri-business lobby.” Proposed changes to the Farm Bill by those in the organic community include the funding of resources, research and education in the areas of sustainable and organic farming, the opening of all working land conservation programs to growers who farm responsibly, the funding of a new farmer and rancher grant program, financial support for the development of local infrastructure for small scale farms and backing to support the purchase of fresh, local and organic foods by public schools, hospitals and nursing homes. “Many people think the Farm Bill should be called the Food Bill because people think [the legislation] is just for farmers. But it’s not. This bill determines the quality of the food that we see in our stores and what kind of availability there is,” Rolls continued. “We’re talking about huge systematic changes – moving our food system away from commodity-based foods to community-based foods. And now the public is getting involved in the debate.” That’s good news. If consumers get involved and contact their representatives at the local, state and national levels, then change can be made. On an everyday basis, simply buying and cooking with organic and sustainable foods can have a comparable effect. “This is an effort to reclaim our food system,” Pugh declared. “Buying from local farmers helps them maintain their way of life, boosts the economy and preserves our greenspace. That’s something I celebrate every time I sit down at the table with their food,” Welander said. “Food is a great uniter – people love to eat,” Rolls agreed. “When you come together around beautifully grown and prepared dishes, there’s something special there.” That’s something to reflect on as you sit down with family and friends to give thanks this year. PN
Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) allows a consumer to associate directly with a farmer and share in a season’s harvest by paying a fee and receiving a weekly allocation of that farm’s food. It’s a unique way to get out in the community and take advantage of the incredible produce being cultivated close to home. “The CSA is a great concept because it requires something of both the farmer and the community member,” said Lynn Pugh, who manages a CSA at Cane Creek Farm. “You have to trust each other — there’s a relationship involved.” For $300, CSA members get to visit Cane Creek Farm once a week for 12 weeks to choose from a wide selection of sustainable foods, like lettuce, arugula, cabbage, kale, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, berries and more — all of which has been picked the day before it’s put out. The farm has two seasons, one starting at the beginning of May and the other at the end of July. And during the visits, consumers get more than just great food. “You get a stronger guarantee that you know how the food is grown, and if you have a question about the food, you can ask the farmer directly,” explained Alice Rolls, executive director of Georgia Organics, Inc. “There really is a social aspect.” Pugh can attest to that. “That’s been one of the best things about the CSA — it brings out some of the most interesting people,” she noted. “We share recipes, news about our children and various things. And when people come to the CSA, they realize the hard work that went into making this food. They get an appreciation of the food.” “There’s that sense of story behind the food,” Rolls added. “There’s that cultural element of the land, of the season, of the place.” That, coupled with the diverse array of foods available, just might encourage you to get a little creative with your cooking and try a fruit or vegetable you never have before. There’s also a good chance you’ll be motivated to cook the foods you picked up at the CSA instead of going out for dinner. While every CSA operates differently, the concept remains the same. If you want to find a CSA close to you, the best place to start is Georgia Organics’ Local Food Guide, available in hard copy or online at www.georgiaorganics.org. To learn more about the Cane Creek Farm CSA, visit www.canecreekfarm.net.
Membership in Georgia Organics isn’t just for farmers and growers. Consumers can get involved too. A tax-deductible donation will provide you with membership in the organization, as well as the chance to receive “The Dirt” quarterly newsletter and the Local Food Guide and attend a variety of GO events. To find out more or make a contribution, visit www.georgiaorganics.org/join.
By the year 2015, 75 percent of the food offered at Emory University and Emory Hospital will be sustainable or locally grown. At least, that’s the plan, which is just one component of a larger strategic sustainability initiative that has been started by the administration, faculty and staff of the prestigious institution. “This sustainable food initiative says that we, as a university, want to be ethically engaged, and we realize that by changing how we spend our food dollar, we can bring about significant benefits both here at home in the United States and abroad,” said Peggy Barlett, Ph.D., professor of anthropology, faculty liaison to the Office of Sustainability Initiatives and chair of the Sustainable Food Committee. “[The plan] is very ambitious, and it will require some significant changes in the economy of the Southeast.” Right now, there simply aren’t enough organic or sustainable farms in Georgia to supply the institution with the amount of food it will need to achieve its challenging goal. Therefore, Emory has entered into a partnership with Georgia Organics to make its dream a reality. “Georgia Organics’ efforts to build a stronger local food movement have helped pave the way for the Emory Sustainable Food Initiative. They’re helping us build supply,” Barlett noted. To advance the movement even more, Emory will fund the hiring of a half-time employee at GO, who will work as a farmer liaison between the institution and the nonprofit organization. The partnership is part of the additional endeavors Georgia Organics is taking on in the local organic and sustainable food campaign. “We’re seeing that there are more opportunities for us to move into a support role,” observed Alice Rolls, executive director for Georgia Organics, Inc. “There’s a need to develop infrastructure, and this kind of integrated project with Emory is the type of role we’re going to be playing in the future.” At this point, Emory’s Sustainable Food Initiative is in the earliest planning stages, with the Sustainable Food Committee defining the criteria it will follow for choosing organic and sustainable foods. But it’s definitely a step in the right direction. “We’re all hoping that this is the beginning of some major changes in our food system,” Barlett concluded. “All signals are that it’s possible.”
For More Information Georgia Organics, Inc. Cane Creek Farm |
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