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Exploring One of Europe’s Most Dramatic Cityscapes: Edinburgh, Scotland With my back to the towering woods, I began to feel an unnerving sensation and the hairs on my neck began to stand up as if a narrowing eye was silently watching me from behind. The 13th-century Dalhousie Castle loomed in the distance while I stood with baited gloved arm, mustering enough steely coldness to stand patiently … and wait. As silent as a slow wind, a majestic owl swooped down from the sky and delicately perched on my outreached arm to snatch up his morning meal. He snacked happily while a flurry of flashing cameras captured each flicker of his feathers until he grew tired of all the fuss and returned quietly from whence he came. The handler turned to me with a smile and asked, “Do you want to do it again?” “What would Braveheart do?” I pondered and then answered with a wide, mischievous grin. This was the Scotland I had always imagined. A land full of mysteries as large as the Loch Ness monster and ghostly shadows of mighty men, such as Rob Roy and the fiery Braveheart himself, William Wallace. As I assumed the position of cat and mouse again, (Was I the cat or the mouse? I can never be sure), I began to unravel the many wonders of this land steeped in myths and Old World charm. Land Before Time In the outskirts of historic Edinburgh is an 800-year-old fortress resting like a retired general among thick woods and within a skipping stone of the Esk River. Despite being a citadel made of stone, Dalhousie Castle beckons with true Scottish hospitality and a foaming mug of ale. As you amble through its ancient past, you can feel as though you are lord of your own manor while perusing age-old books in the castle library. Guests can melt under the hands of a massage at the Aqueous Spa or retreat to their luxurious four-star guest room with a leather-bound book of poems by Scotland’s own Robert Burns tucked snugly under their arm. The rooms weave a rich tapestry of Scottish history and style and are decorated with period furniture and native fabrics of tartan, tweed and twill.
The room may be tempting, but you mustn’t get too cozy. An exciting outing on the castle grounds and surrounding landscape awaits you. A nearby jaunt to the mystifying Rosslyn Chapel surely should not be missed, especially by bibliophiles who tore through their copy of “The Da Vinci Code.” The suspense novel suggests the elusive Holy Grail mystery may be unearthed here. Just a brisk walk from the castle door will immerse you into the sport of kings — the castle’s onsite falconry. Once a prized pastime of Scottish nobility, the castle has recreated the wonder of these majestic birds of prey and is home to award-winning mews. Guests may handle and visit with a menagerie of birds such as hawks, buzzards, falcons, eagles and owls. On my visit, I was lucky enough to come face to face with Navajo, a beautiful Great Grey Owl whose huge saucer-sized face only enhanced his bright yellow eyes, which were bewitching to behold. While you may temporarily lose your appetite after watching Navajo satisfy his own, the wafting smell of a Scottish banquet coming from within the castle walls could lure even an innocent man into a dungeon. No, really. Descending down a stone stairway dressed in tethered flags, the Dungeon Restaurant offers ravenous guests both a taste of the country’s delicacies as well as its dramatic past. A barrel-vaulted basement prison has been transformed into a dramatic dining experience, as silver armor and medieval weaponry decorate the weathered stonewalls. Here, a meal fitting a noble knight awaits and dinner guests can greedily feast on local dishes of venison, salmon, grouse and prime Scottish beef. Just like a dungeon, the Dalhousie Castle may be impossible to leave, but I had to break the chains of its charm to go exploring Edinburgh — the capital of Scotland since 1437 – just a short 20-minute drive from Dalhousie. Exploring Edinburgh My introduction to Edinburgh came from the starry-eyed view through a car window and I was immediately charmed to make the city’s acquaintance. Flowering pink Cherry and Apple Blossoms dressed the dark brown cobblestone streets like a boutonnière enlivens a man’s dark suit. The landscape also blooms with an abundance of both Medieval and Georgian architecture, making it one of the most dramatic and popular tourist destinations in Europe, attracting about 13 million visitors a year. And what better way to begin my exploration of this great historic city than roaming the halls of the Channings Hotel, former home to one of the world’s greatest polar explorers — Ernest Shackleton. Shackleton is best remembered for his Antarctic expedition of 1914–1916 in the ill-fated journey of the Endurance. After the Endurance was broken by ice, the entire crew remained stranded until Shackleton and five other men sailed treacherous waters to seek help and returned with aide, ultimately saving the lives of his entire crew. A black-and-white photo of the handsome, intrepid adventurer hangs in the lobby, and as I marvel at his chiseled features the desk clerk jokes that most Americans confuse him for Bob Hope. I laugh in agreement at the remark, but secretly I blush, since I just had wondered why a photo of Bob Hope was hanging on the wall. The hotel juxtaposes its history with edgy, modernism, especially in the recently renovated six luxurious suites that include heated tiles in the bathroom, a special treat on a rain-chilled morning. I stayed in one of their best rooms, Discovery, named after one of Shackleton’s beloved vessels, which offers a picturesque view of the hotel’s private garden and the city’s stunning architecture. The view was so tempting, in fact, I shook off any vestige of jet lag and hit the streets running. Strolling the Royal Mile There is no better place to land your first steps than on the Royal Mile — “The largest, longest and finest street for buildings and number of inhabitants, not only in Britain, but in the world,” boasted British writer Daniel Defoe in 1723. Four ancient streets (from Castlehill, where people have been living for the past 7,000 years, to Canongate) combine to create the illustrious Royal Mile, once the lifeblood of medieval life and now a siren song for sightseeing and shopping. Scoffing at guitars, street musicians would rather blow on their bagpipes as passersby flip coins into a dusty hat. History lovers will swoon with each step, whether it’s staring in utter awe at the towering 12th-century Edinburgh Castle or the gothic St. Giles Cathedral. Once inside St. Giles, don’t bypass a tour of the beautiful Thistle Chapel, which honors knights both past and present, and be sure to play a game of I-spy at the church’s arched entrance, which displays a bagpiping angel. While exploring the Royal Mile, journey upward to the Outlook Tower, a rooftop observatory where a peep through the Camera Obscura affords a breathtaking panoramic view of the city. Traveling with children or perhaps you’re a kid at heart? Then follow the pitter-patter of little feet to the Museum of Childhood. Called the world’s noisiest museum and the first of its kind, the collection highlights toys, medicines, school memorabilia and even an old-fashioned nickelodeon, making it a walk down memory lane for generations of former children. As you tour, remember that the man who created the museum — city councilor Patrick Murray — in 1955 actually admitted to detesting children. Popping in and out of the area’s shops is perhaps the most popular way to whittle away a day in and around the Royal Mile. Ness Clothing Company was one of my personal favorites and is the ideal place to peruse for modern Scottish clothes from jackets to T-shirts and fashionable tartan accessories like wallets, bags and luggage. I was particularly amazed by the wide diversity of kilt shops and just how “rock ‘n’ roll” a kilt can be. I discovered that there has been a youth resurgence in the popularity of wearing kilts, so don’t be surprised to see a black leather kilt hanging in the store window. Or perhaps whisky is more your style? Then off you should go to the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre directly on the Royal Mile, which introduces visitors to the country’s national treasure. Once you’ve savored its history, now it’s time for the real thing. Amble inside the popular family-run Demijohn Liquid Deli located on Victoria Street (also a lively shopping area, as well as Princes Street) where you can bottle your own whisky in an array of decorative decanters for a wonderful souvenir or gift for the poor, thirsty souls you left back home. Historic Marvels Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse stand like glorious gilded bookends for the string of whimsical shops, ancient churches and museums found along the Royal Mile. On the eastern side, the awe-inspiring Edinburgh Castle (Castle Rock) is a testament to the fighting tenacity of the Scottish people as well as their inextinguishable “fire in the belly.” Entrenched high on the core of an extinct volcano, the mighty fortress is actually a community of buildings that have been constructed throughout the centuries, all the way up to the World Wars. The role of this citadel changed over time from palace to prison to military stronghold, so an amble within its walls unfolds a million stories of Scottish history. Here you can see the Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny in the castle palace where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to her son, the Great Hall where the Scottish Parliament met until 1639, and the Argyle Battery, which offers a sweeping view of the city and a favorite picture-taking spot. The castle also holds the honor of housing the oldest building in the entire city — St. Margaret’s Chapel, which was constructed in the 11th century. One particularly unique sight in the castle is the soldier’s dog cemetery, a touching resting place for man’s best friend. Placed on a grassy cliff with a view to die for, it appears it’s nearly as good to be the officer’s dog as it is to be the king himself. There is truly too much history to dust off and mention here, but rest assured whether you loved your history class or slept through it, a tour of Edinburgh Castle will amaze all who enter its gate. Though when making your tour, check your watch to see if you have enough time. Be sure to allot at least a couple hours for your exploration because you could get happily lost wandering through the mammoth grounds that resemble a small town. But if it is royalty you seek, then head to the western end of the Royal Mile to the majestic gate of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s official residence while in Scotland. You will need a panoramic camera to capture the expansive palatial façade and comfortable shoes to roam its many halls and stately garden. In 1498, the palace was constructed on the grounds of an abbey. In fact, the church ruins become a work of art itself as you explore the moss-covered gravestone and crumbling cherubs. For those intrigued with the troubled history of Mary Queen of Scots, then the palace will satisfy your curiosity. Artifacts from her life are on display and you can trace her steps on the fateful day in 1566, when the pregnant Queen Mary bore witness to the murder of her friend, David Rizzio, who was stabbed 56 times upon order of her jealous husband. If the macabre is not to your fancy, then a tour of the Queen’s Gallery offers a testament to beauty and displays artwork from the Royal Collection. Shot in the Dark I had one more engagement to make, so I headed off for my last night in Scotland to the 18th-century Melville Castle, just 20 minutes from Edinburgh. The wooded 50-acre estate is ideal for a host of outdoor activities, from fishing and off-roading tours to horse riding and golf. However, I wanted my last day in Scotland to go off with a bang, so we ended up shooting clay pigeons with Go Forth, a tour guide for outdoor activities in Scotland. Once I received some initial training on the handling, loading and firing a shotgun, I was ready for my first attempt. And to my amazement, I hit that clay pigeon square in the eyes, and I still have the clay trophy to prove it. That evening I spent my time sipping a nightcap in the castle bar and quickly the conversation turned to ghost stories. I discovered that during the renovation, hotel employees claim a female apparition moved across the library bar from the fireplace to the opposite wall. Construction workers later discovered that the wall was actually built over a doorway, which has since been reopened. Since then, there have been other reports of a woman “hovering at the foot of the bed in a first-floor bedroom” and suddenly I was thrilled I had to walk flights of stairs to my third-floor room. Some say the spirit is that of Mary Stuart (Mary Queen of Scots) recalling her fond memories with Rizzio at Melville Castle. Either way, my love of history ends at seeing a ghost, so I headed off to bed. Before the sun began its rise, I heard the undeniable sound of footsteps coming from above at an unnatural time of night. Strange for sure, considering I was on the top floor, with no rooms above me. I felt compelled to ask the woman in the only room next to me if she was up early or heard any footsteps during the night. She confirmed my experience, also perplexed by the sound that seemed to be coming from above. I’m not sure if those rumblings were from a real ghost or just a creaky castle, but one thing is for certain: The mystifying beauty of this city will haunt my dreams until I return one day to unearth more discoveries. PN Pint-Sized Fun in Edinburgh When people think of Scottish cuisine, they may think of porridge and haggis but Howies shatters that myth. A favorite local restaurant in Edinburgh that promises “fine food without the faff,” I’m sure you’ll come across this lively eatery in your wanderings, as there are four locations in the city. When you do, feel free to dip in for dinner to dine on fish ‘n’ chips of beer-battered sea bass filet or exotic dishes with an Asian flair. Or better yet, perhaps just dessert. The Howies Banoffi Pie is a light and sweet dessert that’s decidedly British. For more information, visit www.howies.uk.com. If the night is still young and you happen to be looking for a happening trendy hot spot, follow the urban trendsetters to TigerLily — a bar, restaurant and boutique hotel in a converted Georgian townhouse. This is the place to see and be seen in the most fashionable district of Edinburgh — George Street. Opened in 2006, the bar is decadent in design as well as its signature drinks that come complete with a live flower garnish, making each sip a work of art. Cheers! For more information, visit www.tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk. On the Road Again
About 50 miles from Edinburgh, the city of Glasgow awaits and offers visitors a different perspective of Scotland’s people. If Edinburgh symbolizes Scotland’s rich past, then Glasgow holds the looking glass into the land’s lively future. Historic buildings mingle with modern architecture and it’s a hotspot for the youthful, free spirit. Designer shopping, hip eateries and edgy art museums tantalize tourists looking for a taste of 21st-century savvy. Just 19 miles northwest of Glasgow is one of the most accessible lochs (lakes) in Scotland — Loch Lomond. It is the largest body of fresh water in the British Isles and its beauty is magnified thanks to the snowy peaks of Ben Lomond mountain reflecting in perfect symmetry into the placid blue waters. Here you can also glide along its glassy waters in a rising mist and spy the old haunts of Rob Roy, considered to be Scotland’s version of Robin Hood. Nearby Loch Lomond is the unspeakably charming, postcard-perfect town of Luss. Considered one of the most picturesque cottage towns of Central Scotland, you will wander its small gathering of quiet streets, passing stone cottages with flowering window boxes in absolute wonder. Be sure to stop in the Coach House Coffee, Tea & Gift Shop for a sampling of their daily whisky cakes. You can’t miss it! For more information on travel car tours and Loch Lomond boat trips, please visit www.haggisadventures.com and www.cruiselochlomondltd.com. Now Playing: “The Water Horse: Legend of the Deep” Looking for a sighting of the mysterious Loch Ness before you dig your toes into Scottish soil? Head to the theaters this month with your little ones to see “The Water Horse: Legend of the Deep.” The newly released film harnesses the same creative team behind the “Lord of the Rings” to bring “one of most enduring and intriguing legends of our time” to the silver screen. For more information, visit www.sonypictures.com/movies/thewaterhorse. For More Information
Channings Hotel Dalhousie Castle Demijohn Go Forth Melville Castle Ness Clothing Company Royal Mile Scotland Tourism |
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