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Picasso CafePicasso Café Wine Bar

The artist dips his brush and raises it to the canvas. In his mind is a vision of his finished work: A restaurant that blends well with its neighboring shops and ­galleries, yet establishes its own distinct identity. A splash of bold color here and there, the shadows of low lighting and flickering tea light candles, a mosaic of bottles and glass — when he is finished, a masterpiece has emerged on the streets of Downtown Buford, and the visual appeal is only the beginning.

The artistic work that is Picasso Café Wine Bar is well described by its mantra: “A collage of flavors, sights and sounds.” Its culinary offerings are sundry and unsurpassed in quality; its décor paints an artistic ambiance in honor of its namesake; and its song is one of mellow music, clinking glasses and relaxed conversation. At the focal point of this composition is the wine bar itself. Located at the back center of the one-room bistro, the bar immediately draws attention with its tapestry of hanging stemware and soft icicle lights. A few inviting stools encourage patrons to take a seat and make a selection from Picasso’s sophisticated wine list, from vineyards both familiar and exotic, by the glass, by the bottle or, upon request, by the flight. Though wine aficionados will feel right at home, novices need not worry; General Manager Eric Tummillo is well versed in the vine, and can make recommendations or offer samples in true wine bar fashion before you commit to a glass or bottle. Many labels are also available in highly popular half-bottles, perfect for a party of two, and periodic wine tasting events offer patrons the ultimate experience in swirling and sipping.

Picasso’s dining room is small and cozy (in fact, reservations are a must on weekends), and even tables by the window maintain a sense of intimacy, as the panes are shrouded by plants and contemporary curtains that block all but a glimpse of the outside world. Featuring lighter fare than that of its fine dining sister and neighbor, Sperata, Picasso’s specialties are its Artist Palettes. In themes such as “Sur la Plage” (seafood dishes) or “Green Still Life” (vegetarian items), the gourmet samplers allow guests to experience the gamut of flavors created by Executive Chef Christopher Hope, and are perfect for a light meal or a shared introduction to the bigger picture.

Picasso Food
Picasso’s “Sur la Plage” Artist Palette, ­featuring Crab Cake, ­Calamari, Ahi Tuna and Scallops

Commission your repast from the selection of salads, pastas and entrées, such as the Parmesan-crusted tilapia, a mild fish served with capers and dill atop a special Picasso risotto. Or, request an original work of art; a true artist, after all, works best without direction, and Chef Hope is always willing to present a meal of personally selected samples based on his inspiration alone.

You may start with an extraordinary bruschetta, which is a flavorful collage in itself — at first sweet, but with a touch of spice, the thin garlic crostini is topped with a salad of tomatoes and fresh cheese, balsamic vinegar and pesto sauce. Subsequent delights may include baked goat cheese with olive tapenade, lightly fried calamari in a Peri Peri sauce with fresh, thick marinara, vegetable spring rolls in a sweet Thai chili sauce, or — my personal favorite — sesame-toasted ahi tuna in a teriyaki wasabi glaze. Your meal may conclude with one of Tummillo’s specialty dessert martinis (may I recommend the espresso?) or a flourless chocolate torte that beats licking a spoon of brownie batter — either way, it’s sure to end with a flourish as Picasso signs his name to your night.

— Reviewed by Bre Edmonds

Picasso Café Wine Bar
39 E. Main St.
Buford
678-482-8661
www.picassocwb.com

Photos courtesy of marion golden

Geisha HouseA Sensual Experience

Sultry and sexy, she seduces you the moment you see her. She is Geisha House, a modern Japanese restaurant, sushi bar and sake lounge straight out of Hollywood. Located in Atlantic Station, Geisha House sits alongside its sister hot spots, Dolce Enoteca e Ristorante and Ten Pin Alley, both of which are also backed by celebrity investors Ashton Kutcher and Wilmer Valderrama. Though it maintains the trendy style and high-class characteristic of its parent company, The Dolce Group, Geisha House takes atmosphere to a whole new level.

Outside, the walls are adorned with what can only be described as mysterious, larger-than-life movie posters that foreshadow the experience that awaits behind dungeon-like doors. Vertical strips of red neon lighting run from floor to ceiling just inside the entrance, causing guests to pause and take in the sights even before facing the hostess. Apart from the neon, the restaurant is dark and sexy. A semi-circle of roomy, black booths sits on a raised platform around the smaller tables — all are red-orange in color with simple candles for lighting.

As you sip a Geisha Kiss — sake, lychee, Chambord, Champagne — or a Fallen Sun — Ketel One Citroen, triple sec, lime, lemon, Chambord — you may get so caught up in the décor, you forget to converse with your dinner companion. But it’s not every day that you dine among Japanese doll head displays and ropes hanging from the ceiling. Yes, that’s right, ropes. Other notable decorative elements include a large, looming Geisha caricature and graffiti-like Japanese graphics on the walls. And that’s just downstairs.

Before you venture to the bar and patios upstairs, you’ll enjoy a sophisticated meal of contemporary Japanese food, sushi, sashimi and sake. The extensive, almost overwhelming, menu offers something for even the pickiest eater; soup, salad, Udon noodles, tempura, rice-less rolls, light rice rolls, specialty rolls, hot dishes, cold dishes and more. There are more than 200 menu items; ask your server for suggestions on what to order.

“Our style of service is what makes us unique,” said Nathan Grill, Geisha House manager. “With cuisine of this caliber, you usually get starch, robotic, formal service. Our staff is friendly and our service is nontraditional. Where else do you know of that the servers are encouraged to take shots with the guests?”

It’s true — our server joked with us, catered to our needs and even enjoyed a Dreamsicle shot (orange and vanilla vodka, orange juice and a splash of cream) with us at the meal’s end. He insisted we try the shishito peppers, and boy were we glad he did! Sautéed in soy and garlic, the peppers were soft and sweet. The albacore carpaccio was another yummy starter — light with a pop of flavor. The sushi was good (we tried the Red Samurai — spicy tuna and cucumber, topped with avocado, tuna, grape tomatoes, Serrano pepper and vinaigrette) but the hot dishes stole the show. The black cod marinated in miso and garnished with yama gobou was incredibly tender, and the grilled Kobe rib eye steak with freshly grated wasabi was delicious. Somehow, we managed to save room for the orange crepe banana fritters and a taste of the Japanese crème brûlées (try the coconut) — definitely worth the calories!

We finally ventured upstairs to check out the scene: “Tree house” dining booths for the hip clientele, as well as a posh lounge and bar with futuristic pod chairs, and not one, but two patios overlooking Atlantic Station. There’s more, but why ruin the surprise? Just prepare for an ethereal experience and plan to stay a while. Geisha House titillates the senses and will have you coming back again and again.

— Reviewed by Carly Felton

Geisha House
1380 Atlantic Dr.
Atlanta
404-872-3903
www.dolcegroup.com/geisha

Photo courtesy of dolce group

Jungle JuiceBeauty, Beauty Everywhere

Located in an unassuming, mixed-use high-rise, Beleza is easy to miss, even if you are looking for it. Once inside, however, the meaning of the name Beleza — “beauty” in Portuguese — becomes clear.

The look is crisp, fresh and modern. The intimate interior features one pale mint tiled wall and one contrasting, 150-square-foot plant wall. Snakeskin booths and curved Oscar Niemeyer forms gives Beleza an edge, but simple white chairs and light wooden tables prevent it from becoming too trendy. Mirrors, a frosted glass chandelier and clear, snowflake-like lights make the restaurant/lounge seem airy and spacious, especially for a 60-seater room.

The customers dress to fit in — Beleza frequenters dress in style without going over-the-top. Most sip organic wine, or natural, fruity cocktails created by Mixologist Lindy Colburn. In fact, once midnight rolls around, the kitchen closes and the bar becomes the hot spot (often until 3 a.m.!).

Don’t expect to order a screwdriver or cosmopolitan here; instead, try the Soursop & Elderflower Collins. Made from the juice of soursop (a fruit from Jamaica) and nikolaihof elderflower syrup, fresh citrus juice, mineral water and Plymouth gin, it tastes like a combination of citrus and coconut — and is incredibly refreshing. If energizing is what you’re after, ask for the Jungle Juice — a blend of acerola, acai, citrus juice, guarana & Square One organic vodka or Agua Luca Cachaca. Notice a trend here? Even the mojito is made without refined white sugar.

Jungle Juice Cocktail“The cocktails are Brazilian-inspired. They’re healthy; made with fresh fruit juices and agave nectar,” said Riccardo Ullio, owner of Beleza, Fritti and Sotto Sotto. “Together with the food, they convey the concept of Beleza: beauty. By using gentle, natural ingredients, we are respecting nature and our bodies. The taste makes us happy, and our bodies feel good and look beautiful.”

Executive Chef Michelle McKenzie uses only organic ingredients and makes everything fresh, on the premises, daily. The food does not contain eggs or dairy products, so patrons with allergies may eat worry-free. The restaurant’s kitchen is located in the bar, and there’s no oven or stove to be found. Everything is cooked sous-vide — in a bag submerged in 51-degree Celsius water. This helps cook the food evenly throughout, McKenzie explained. “I get my inspiration from the ingredients,” she said. “They’re so pristine. I use spices and oils to accentuate their flavors without altering them or covering them up.”

The menu changes daily, depending on which seasonal and locally grown ingredients are available, but the categories of small plates remain constant: bites (nuts, olives and berries), crudo (tuna, snapper, various fish), lettuces (leafy salads), fruits and vegetables (think sprout and seed salad and caramelized sunchokes or eggplant and peppers), grains (like quinoa), sous-vide fish (salmon, halibut, daily catch), and natural sweets (chocolate tart, pear sorbet and additional natural delights). The dishes are small. Order a variety for the table and share them all. You’ll feel satisfied without being stuffed to the gills (pun intended).

—Reviewed by Carly Felton

Photos courtesy of beleza

Beleza
905 Juniper St.
Atlanta
678-904-4582
www.belezarestaurant.com