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Atlanta’s European Dining Scene The term “continental cuisine” normally means elaborate French and Italian entrées with a token German or Spanish recipe thrown in for good measure. It’s typically served in quiet, austere restaurants by white-jacketed waiters who may roll their eyes if a customer eats their salad with the wrong fork or mispronounces one of the complex names on the menu. But since the continent in question is Europe, what happened to the food from all the countries east of Germany? For decades it sat simmering away behind the Iron Curtain, but once the curtain fell all those tantalizing aromas began drifting across the Atlantic toward the United States. Now the dishes of Eastern Europe make up a category just as distinct as continental cuisine, but with several big differences. First, expect larger portions and lower prices. There’s also more emphasis on fresh vegetables and perfectly cooked meats than on fancy sauces. Oh, and you can say goodbye to those snooty waiters. In an eastern European restaurant, the owner is more likely to serve your food personally, then pull up a chair and tell a fascinating tale about his home country. By the time the meal is over, you may just feel like part of the family. Rodopi The owners of Rodopi have gone all out to provide the ultimate Bulgarian dining experience. Not only is the cuisine traditional, but the restaurant’s décor mirrors a slice of the old country as well. In the center of the large room is a replica of an outdoor tavern complete with an A-shaped, clay-tiled roof supported by rough wooden beams. Lights shaped like bunches of grapes even dangle from its rafters, a reminder of the grape vines growing wild through parts of the land. Original paintings and folk art decorate the walls while potted plants rest on elaborate hand-woven table coverings.
Entrées like musaka and stuffed peppers will be familiar to many diners, but you’ll also find unusual creations like kavarma, small chunks of meat simmered in white wine with peppers, onions and mushrooms then served in a small, ornate trough. Other notables are grilled meats and a variety of sausages, including the unique spiral-shaped karnache. With a good selection of Bulgarian beers and wines on the menu as well, your cultural immersion becomes complete. Café Efendi Stretching from eastern Europe to western Asia, Turkey has always enjoyed a unique “Eurasian” status in the world. It also borders eight different countries and three different seas, soaking up a wealth of cultural influences from all directions. But don’t expect history or geography lessons when you visit Café Efendi because the emphasis here is strictly on fun. You can eat on the patio or inside the little house, where copper cookware and ornate rugs adorn bright maroon walls. The restaurant is cheerful during the day, but at night the place comes alive with the sounds of laughter and the infectious rhythm of Turkish music. Things get even livelier on the weekends when belly dancers entertain the crowds and the dinner service turns into one big party. If the music and ambience get you excited, just wait until you open your menu. The list of appetizers is enormous and it’s easy to make a meal of these tasty little treats. You’ll find familiar items like falafel and baba gannuj along with delicious freshly made hummus, sprinkled with a robust spice called sumac then drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. The entrée list contains some old favorites as well, like gyros and a variety of kabobs, but the more exotic dishes are too inviting to pass up. Try the inegol kofte, juicy little beef patties grilled with special seasonings, or the manti, a Turkish dumpling slathered with garlicky yogurt. It won’t be easy, but try to save room for one of the homemade desserts like rice pudding or baklava, served warm with a scoop of ice cream cuddled up on the side. Neretva Most Americans remember Bosnia and Herzegovina for its tragic war in the early ’90s, but this tiny restaurant run by a family from Sarajevo couldn’t be more quiet and peaceful. Its half-dozen tables are surrounded by potted plants, dried flowers and faux brickwork, creating the feel of a small-town café. Another unique touch is the large handmade model of the famous Stari Most Bridge, which spans the Neretva River in the ancient town of Mostar. A simulated river of trickling water runs beneath the bridge, adding yet another soothing touch to the restaurant’s atmosphere. Neretva offers a combination of traditional Bosnian favorites and original creations. The cevapcici are finger-sized sausages served in generous quantities, while pljeskavica is a larger burger-shaped portion of meat spiced with onions and special seasonings. For something with a little zip, try a variation of Serbian barbecue called muckalica, which combines ground beef with a sauce made from tomatoes, peppers, onions, mushrooms, paprika and other spices. You’ll also find simple, tasty dishes like grilled salmon or sliced chicken breast tossed with mushrooms and onions. All entrées come with a small loaf of fresh baked bread and two homemade spreads, one white and one red. The white is made from various cheeses while the red is a moist mixture of vegetables including peppers, eggplant and carrots. Outdoor tables provide a nice sunny spot for lunch and a gathering place for emigrant Bosnians to sip coffee and swap gossip. You can also pick up hard to find European items from the attached grocery store. Gimza Without the eagle from Poland’s coat of arms painted above the bar, Gimza would look like any stylish little New York bistro. The furnishings are simple but classy, with nice touches like burgundy leather chairs and fresh red roses. The menu follows suit by giving traditional Polish cuisine — often thought of as heavy — a lighter, more refined treatment. The menu changes daily, but a wide assortment of classic dishes is always available as well. Instead of appetizers, the chunky bell pepper stew or zingy tomato soup are good ways to season your palate before diving into the main courses. Pierogies, dumplings stuffed with a variety of ingredients such as potatoes, cheese, onions, mushrooms or beef, are surprisingly delicate and served with either sour cream or a mixture of sautéed onions and sausage. The hot, crisp potato pancakes come topped with a creamy mushroom sauce. Other main courses include cabbage rolls and crêpes filled with farmers’ cheese. Apples add a refreshing tartness to side dishes like potato salad or sauerkraut salad, but the unusual cauliflower salad stands out above the rest. Most of the desserts are predictable, with the exception of Polish apple pie, which is more like a light, flaky cake layered with spicy apple puree and dusted with powdered sugar. For those who just can’t decide between so many scrumptious choices, here’s some good news: Gimza hopes to offer an all-you-can-eat buffet sometime in the near future. Astoria Count Dracula might be Romania’s most famous historical figure, but don’t worry about that when you visit Astoria. You might run into someone from Transylvania here, but they’ll only be sinking their teeth into beloved recipes from their homeland. Expatriates tend to start their meal with ciorba de burta, or tripe soup, but those with less adventurous palates should try the meatball soup, a flavorful broth filled with minced vegetables and large, plump meatballs. For entrées, Astoria serves classic dishes such as stuffed cabbage and mititei, grilled sausages, which come out juicy, smoky and delicious. Other grilled offerings include lamb chops, pork shoulder and kebabs made from chicken, beef, or shrimp. You’ll also find a few famous dishes jazzed up with new ingredients, like Schnitzel Prahovean, a variation of Wiener Schnitzel topped with cheese and mushroom sauce, and Chicken Cordon Bleu stuffed with multi-colored bell peppers in addition to thin, spicy ham and a mellow white cheese. Side dishes include mamaliga, a staple of Romanian cuisine that Southerners will find hauntingly familiar. It’s a simple mixture of cornmeal and water, very similar to grits, served in a soft, warm mound like mashed potatoes. A mouth-watering selection of cakes and pastries make up the dessert menu. Astoria is happy to host wedding receptions, baby showers, birthday parties and other gatherings. They also provide a venue for Romanian musicians, so check their Web site for upcoming events. PN For More Information Rodopi Café Efendi Neretva Gimza Astoria Eastern European Markets Want to recreate some of these dishes at home? Shop here for authentic ingredients. Adam’s European Market & Deli Balkan European Market European Market New Odessa |
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Feast from the East
It’s what comes out of the kitchen that truly excites the senses, though. For starters, try a Pepper Burek, long red peppers stuffed with cheese then breaded and lightly fried. Bulgarians always eat salad before dinner, although these huge and complex creations could easily serve as a main course. The Shepherd’s Salad is nearly overwhelming with its big chunks of ham, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, mushrooms, corn and roasted peppers, all topped with a generous portion of salty feta cheese. To truly blend in with the locals, enjoy your salad with a small glass of rakia, a powerful Bulgarian brandy.