/nav/nav_top_menu.jpg
Home About Us Subscribe Advertise Distribution Contact Us Archives Advertisers

Herb Crusted ChickenCome, Stay Awhile at the River Room

Hidden within the borders of Post Riverside Town Square in North Buckhead, one of the area’s oldest live/work/play developments, is a culinary destination not to be missed by seekers of the good life. The development’s magnificent entrance and winding, tree-lined drive leads up to a cobblestoned courtyard that juxtaposes upscale, urban style and quaint, small town charm. It is here, mere minutes from Northside Parkway, but seemingly miles from the tiresome hubbub of honking traffic, that you’ll discover the River Room, a peaceful respite from a hectic day, a haven at which you can hang your hat and enjoy a long, leisurely repast of exquisite, soul-satisfying fare.

This is fine dining at its finest, but it is comfortable, too. Something of a family venture (Executive Chef Joseph Rahme’s parents and sister all play roles in the restaurant’s operation), the River Room exudes the informality that is common at your own dining room table (but with your good china, of course). With a foyer separating the tavern and ­martini lounge from the main dining area, parties may gather at the bar for cocktail hour without disturbing the flow of pleasant and efficient servers from the semi-open kitchen, then drift into the dining room, where warm décor in rich browns and burgundies invites patrons to linger over multi-course meals. Rushing is not allowed, and the tick of the clock continues unnoticed; this is a place to spend a few hours in the company of friends and good food.

Chef Rahme hails from an impressive culinary background, with such distinguished Atlanta eateries as ­Buckhead Diner, 103 West and Villa Christina assembling his resume. Relying on French and English influences gathered from his personal travels abroad, Rahme specializes in American cuisine with distinctively European nuances, and he likes to mix things up, guaranteeing diversity for repeat patrons. By changing his menu four to five times a year, Rahme is able to experiment with new and sometimes unconventional options, and adventurous foodies will be delighted with the risks — I, for one, was quite taken with a limited-time amuse bouche of seared ostrich loin with red onion marmalade and cranberry demi-glace.

The gastronomic mastermind also incorporates ingredients based on what’s in particularly good season; last year, he brought in a multitude of superlative strawberries, leading to the creation of a silken strawberry beurre blanc by Sous Chef Patrick Callahan that was served alongside a pan-roasted Chilean seabass, adding a pleasantly surprising hint of sweetness to an otherwise savory dish. With his latest menu change, Rahme has incorporated a cheese and fruit plate, the likes of which you’ll find only in Europe, with the intent of evoking memories of dining overseas for his well-traveled clientele. You’ll also find a divine lobster bisque with Champagne cream, a noteworthy herb-crusted halibut with gorgonzola mashed potatoes and cilantro-orange buerre blanc and a seductive roasted peach cheesecake.

Stop by for Thursday Night Wine Flight to sample an array of labels from the River Room’s extensive wine list, or plan your own special occasion in the private dining room, which seats 10 to 26 guests (or can be arranged for an incredibly intimate dinner for a party of two.) And if you’re in the market for the ultimate culinary experience, check the Web site for upcoming prix fixe dinners, where three- to five-course meals are served alongside the perfect wine pairings to enhance the flavors of each dish.

But no matter when you dine at the River Room, be sure to stick around for coffee after dinner, be it a traditional cup of Joe or a River Room Café Mocha with Godiva, Kahlua, cognac and whipped cream — chances are, you won’t be ready to say good night.

— Reviewed by Bre Edmonds

Photo courtesy of MarionGolden

River Room Restaurant and Tavern
Post Riverside Town Square
4403 Northside Pkwy.
Buckhead
404-233-3073
www.riverroom.com

Feelin’ Hot Hot Hot!

As the menu at Tamarind Seed Thai Bistro explains, “Thai cuisine is designed to stimulate and excite the five senses: sweet, sour, hot, salty and neutral.” The word “hot” should be emphasized with bold print. The rest of the menu’s introduction — and the fact that it even needs an introduction should be an indication of the wonders to come — further defines the principles (and spices) behind a Thai dining experience.

“To enjoy traditional Thai cooking at its best, you should stimulate your taste buds to their limits,” instructs the menu. So, like most Asian restaurants, Tamarind’s dishes are labeled by a rating system of chili peppers, ranging from mild that “will import a stimulating ‘kick’ to lips and tongue,” to a spiciness level that “is for addicts, masochists and Thai nationals.”

Of course every dish can be adjusted to diners’ preferences, but I requested my food mild and my mouth still felt a pretty big kick! Nevertheless, the chilies don’t overpower the other delicate spices in Chef-Owner Nan Niyomkul’s dishes — coriander leaves and root, lemon grass, fresh leaves and peel of Kaffir lime, and kha root (a milder cousin of ginger).

One of the highlights of the menu is the fresh basil rolls — steamed rice paper skins wrapped with green vegetables and vermicelli rice noodles. A small appetizer worth ordering even if you’re not that hungry, these light delights are served with a sweet sauce that balances the slight zing of spices.

The salads are dense enough for a meal, but serve as great starters when shared. The Tamarind yum-ped-yang salad consists of roasted boneless duck with chili peppers contrasted by a bed of lettuce, onions, cashews, pineapple chunks, grapes and sliced apples with lemon juice. The unusual combination of nutty and spicy flavors is curiously pleasing.

The nightly special, battered and baked sea bass served with okra, eggplant, spinach and a sweet chili sauce, reminded me of the delicate preparations at Nan, Niyomkul’s more elegant Thai restaurant. Soft, succulent and not so spicy, the sea bass certainly caught my fancy; but the Siam chicken — sautéed slices of white meat chicken with chunks of pineapple, cashews and mushrooms mixed in a spicy herb sauce and served in a hallowed-out pineapple — was a big hit with my dinner companion.

Full but not overstuffed, I took in the décor — black lacquered tables, orange bamboo placemats, and pale yellow walls adorned with photographs and ornate bronze Thailand-inspired objects. For its prime Colony Square location, Tamarind is surprisingly low key. Dim lighting sets the mood, but the infamous spice jars from the restaurant’s former location on 14th Street, back when it was called Tamarind Thai Cuisine, help maintain its relaxed feel. It’s a tad more upscale than before, but the new Tamarind is perfect for a night out with friends. Just be sure to assuage your tongue with beer or wine afterward!

— Reviewed by Carly Felton

Photos courtesy of Marion Golden

Tamarind Seed Thai Bistro
Colony Square
1197 Peachtree St. NW
Atlanta
404-873-4888

Wine, Dine and Dancing

It’s Friday and you’re ready to go out, splurge a little and dance your cares away. Is it too much to ask to find a place where you can enjoy a delectable dinner and a DJ spinning all your favorite 80s, 90s and dance tunes?

Not at all.

In an unassuming strip mall in Roswell you’ll find VIII fifty, a trendy restaurant and lounge with superior ­service, gourmet fare and an atmosphere to suit your every whim. In the mood for a casual evening with companions and top-shelf cocktails? Gather around the bar for a martini or a glass of wine (there are 40 to choose from, and more by the bottle). Hungry for a scrumptious meal of unique, global cuisine? Request a table in the dining room, or one of the semi-private cabanas on the patio, for some tantalizing tastes. Just stopping in to nosh on desserts? Grab a seat in the lounge, where comfy leather chairs make for a cozy, intimate treat. And if you’re ready to kick up your heels? Hit the dance floor at VIII fifty for your next night on the town — the DJ starts at 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

If you’re wary about the nomenclature of “dance club,” don’t be. VIII fifty is a far cry from any hazy dive with neon lights and sticky floors; in fact, it’s designed as an upscale eatery, complete with hardwood floors, nice linens and flickering candlelights. The restaurant’s ambiance blends funk and class, with dusky lighting, bold colors, textured walls and open ceilings for a raw, informal feel.

The menu takes diners around the world, from the rich flavors of Italy and the spice of Asia to some good, American comfort food. Executive Chef Daniel Massie likes to shake things up seasonally, but despite any disappointment at the disappearance of a well-loved dish, frequenters never fail to discover a new favorite with each menu change. The heart of the menu is the selection of small plates, which might include a sweet potato gnocchi with maple cream and savory fennel sausage, a cold, light lobster corn salad with vanilla bean aioli and a hint of spice or slices of marinated hanger steak served atop roasted asparagus with a delicious herb chimichurri sauce. When it comes to entrees, there will always be options for traditional eaters, like the roasted, wild-caught salmon with lemon beurre blanc, and something for more adventurous ­palates, like the organic smoked pork chop with wild mushroom duxelles. The bone-in veal chop will make your mouth water at first whiff, and even the standard Caesar salad takes on a new spin at VIII fifty — it’s served in an artistic arrangement of whole Romaine lettuce leaves encircled by a pumpernickel crouton and topped with spicy whole peppercorns and a thick Parmesan dressing.

When it comes to dessert, there are many decadent options that draw the eye: Tiramisu Trifle, Dark Chocolate Molten Cake, Chocolate Ancho Bread Pudding … We originally didn’t even consider the Warm Three Chocolate Cookies — I mean, a cookie is a cookie, right? — but thanks to our server’s insistence, we found that these globs of cookie dough, flecked with generous morsels of white, dark and milk chocolate, are nothing like the typical Tollhouse sweets we’re used to. Instead, they are baked just so, ensuring the edges are slightly crisp, but the middles are warm and so soft they literally melt in your mouth. They’re so good, they remain ­constant on an ever-changing menu.

If you visit on a weekend, the crowd gets chattier as the night goes on, so plan to stick around, let loose and have some fun.

—Reviewed by Bre Edmonds

Photos courtesy of VIII Fifty

VIII Fifty
1570 Holcomb Bridge Road
Roswell
678-206-0850
www.850atlanta.com