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Athens Beyond the Arch With its Strong Southern History, an Appreciation for the Arts and a Thriving Culinary Scene, The Classic City is Much More Than a College Town It’s like that word association game; you say “Athens,” you think “Bulldogs,” “football” or “frat boys.” And reasonably so, with more than 30,000 students enrolled in the University of Georgia, and 90,000-plus football fans flooding the town for Saturdays between the hedges of Sanford Stadium. In fact, it’s impossible to appreciate Athens’ history apart from that of the university, as UGA was chartered in 1785, 21 years before the city of Athens was built around it in 1806. Named after the Greek city, the ancient center of culture and learning, Athens, Ga., quickly began to attract residents seeking close proximity to the college, and the same is true today. The Classic City is home to a healthy mix of University professors, progressive students and college graduates, creating a diverse, widely educated population and establishing the city as a cultural center that offers all the attractions you’ll find in major urban hubs like Atlanta, but in a close-knit community that maintains its small-town appeal. The rich history and deep Southern charm of Athens are offset by a distinct artsy vibe and sense of environmental awareness, creating a unique set of characteristics that shines through in everything from its culture and cuisine to its scenery and shops. And the next few months offer an opportune chance to visit when Dogwood-kissed streets are pardoned from school-year crowds. So even if you’ve viewed Athens through red-and-black-colored glasses, it’s time to catch a glimpse of The Classic City beyond UGA’s legendary Arch. Song of the South and a Dose of Deco Lodging options are scattered throughout Downtown Athens, but none quite compares to The Foundry Park Inn & Spa. The inn honors the history of the Athens Foundry, which was established in the late 1850s when the town’s residents feared an attack by Northern armies; though a fire destroyed most of the building in 1863, the interior and exterior bricks weathered the disaster, and the building, now renovated to house meeting and banquet facilities, serves as the focal point for the property. Arriving at The Foundry, I was immediately taken with its quaint antebellum appearance and greeted with quintessential Southern hospitality at the registration house. Making my way to my suite at the back of the property, I drank in the rows of snug units in low-rise buildings that replicate the row-houses built in Athens in the 1820s. But when I opened the door to my home for the weekend, I found a stark contrast to the inn’s historic exterior. Whereas the Foundry’s façade is quiet and unassuming, The Art Deco suite is trendy and modern, with deep purple walls meeting bold red ceilings, abstract decorations and exotic fabrics in the style of the Roaring Twenties. A kitchenette separates the spacious living and dining area from a bedroom and sitting area that features a luscious king-sized bed and an oversized bathroom splashed in granite.
Guests at the Foundry can indulge in pampering spa treatments, such as the Famous Hot Stone Massage; Southern bistro-style cuisine at the historic Hoyt House Restaurant; or casual fare and camaraderie at the Athens Steam Company Pub. But the star of the show is the Foundry’s newest venture: The Melting Point, which opened in 2005. Perhaps Athens best-kept secret among a slew of nightspots that overflow with Downtown, Everything’s Waiting for You Because of its close proximity to the bustling downtown district — less than a mile from Broad Street, Athens’ main drag — guests at the Foundry can leave their car keys in their room. When shopping’s on the agenda, there’s something to suit every whim on the Downtown Athens’ Clayton Street — boutique clothing with affordable price tags at Pitaya or Fortsons Clothier, high-dollar fashions at Opulence, UGA paraphernalia at The Red Zone and eclectic finds at Helix. I walked into town empty-handed, and returned with more than a few shopping bags in tow. Thanks to its sundry assortment of residents, who vary in everything from age to economic status to ethnic background, the city is also very receptive to a wide range of culinary options, with more than 50 restaurants in the downtown district alone. For self-described “gourmet soul,” a visit to Five Star Day Café is a must. This is nothing like the Sunday dinner at Grandma’s, but rather a no-frills, counter-service eatery serving up hearty Southern fare with an inventive twist. Try the fried green tomatoes with black-eyed pea salsa or the succulent Soul Chicken Pasta with sautéed veggies, a “blue note” cream sauce and chicken so tender it melts in your mouth. Last Resort Grill is another great option for unique gourmet cuisine, like salmon bruschetta or black bean crepes, in a casual, artsy environment. For finer dining, visit Harry Bissetts New Orleans Café and Oyster Bar, where traditional Cajun/Creole fare offers a refined taste of the bayou. And don’t leave town without a visit to Farm 255 — managed in conjunction with Full Moon Farms, a seven-acre organic farm in town, the restaurant serves only local, seasonal and sustainable food for dinner and Sunday brunch. Farm 255’s atmosphere mirrors its mission, with an earthy, free-spirited feel. Though the menu changes on a day-to-day basis, ingredients such as green garlic, pea tips, carrots and soft shell crab are likely to make an appearance at this time of year. Though Athens is somewhat infamous for its wild collegiate nightlife, the city has its fair share of more sophisticated after-dinner locales as well. Stop in Speakeasy for cocktails or late-night tapas, or venture to Five Points, the area where Milledge Avenue and Lumpkin Street intersect (driving required) to Aromas Wine Bar for wines by the bottle, glass or flight, along with martinis, coffee, light food and desserts. And if you visit before classes resume in August, you may find it safe to venture into a few other bars in the downtown district for a taste of University life minus the students — check out General’s for a Dixieland Tea (which, unlike its Long Island counterpart, actually contains the sweet Southern substance). Triumvirate of the Arts You’ll also encounter a few unconventional bulldogs on the streets of Downtown Athens, the result of public art exhibit for which local artists painted bulldog statues in an array of playful themes — a take on the cows that first popped up in Chicago. The sightings inspired me to explore more of the city’s widespread visual arts, such as The Georgia Museum of Art, which is located on UGA’s campus and serves as both an academic museum and the official art museum of the state. Its permanent collection comprises an array of American, European and Asian works, and a growing compilation of Southern decorative arts. Though its doors will be closed during May and June for sprinkler renovations, the Georgia Museum will celebrate it’s reopening on July 19 with two new exhibits before embarking on a major renovation project that will triple its gallery space. The Lyndon House Arts Center, located just outside the downtown district on Hoyt Street, features an airy gallery with spacious windows that offer an astonishing view of the North Georgia mountains, as well as a historic house museum from the Late Greek Revival period. (If architectural art is your forte, join Classic City Tours for the “Museum Mile” guided look at this and three other house museums, each of which represent a different architectural style and era of Athens history). Though I’ve never been much of an art collector, I discovered an appreciation for pottery after my day of museum and gallery drifting, and found myself making an impulse purchase — a set of ceramic plates — at Good Dirt, a studio and gallery featuring the work of local potters. But my emersion in Athens’ visual arts could not end without paying homage to Mother Nature’s masterpieces, so I set out for The State Botanical Garden of Georgia. The 300-acre property, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, features specialty gardens with native and exotic plants, more than five miles of nature trails and a conservatory displaying tropical species. Offering a multi-sense experience, a Sunflower Concert Series brings live music into the natural wonderland once a month from June to August. Athens also embraces dramatic arts in a variety of forms, from Broadway productions at The Classic Center Theatre to flying dance trapeze at Canopy Studio. Missing from the city’s repertoire in the past was a venue dedicated to independent cinematic art, but with the opening of Ciné in 2007, even that gap has been filled. Located in a restored building — what was once the Snow Tire Company Recap Plant — the building is a work of art in itself, utilizing new urbanism principles and incorporating elements of the original industrial structure along with modern interior design. Ciné screens a carefully chosen selection of foreign and domestic indie films, offering the chance for film lovers to enjoy movies that bypass the neighborhood multiplex. Grab a cappuccino or glass of wine in the BarCafé before taking your seat, or partake in the “Dinner and a Movie” special produced in conjunction with The National, a Mediterranean café housed in an adjacent section of the building. Operated by Chefs Peter Dale and Hugh Acheson of Athens’ acclaimed Five & Ten, The National evokes the ambiance of a modernized, upscale diner. But the most widely produced art form in all of Athens is that of chords and bars, melodies, tunes, rifts and beats. College football aside, the city is best known for a thriving music scene that fostered the upbringing of R.E.M., Widespread Panic, the B-52s and more than 300 other hometown bands. On any given night, it’s easy to find whatever musical genre strikes your fancy as hundreds of performers amp up (or go unplugged) in one of Athens’ many clubs, concert halls or bars. In addition to The Melting Point, such renowned venues as Georgia Theatre and 40 Watt Club have offered countless concert-goers a raw, intimate musical experience like none other. If it’s music history you dig, download the Athens Music Walking Tour from www.visittathensga.com, or pick up a copy at the Athens Welcome Center, and embark on a journey to the city’s musical roots. Even if Georgia football is the primary purpose of your next jaunt to Athens, plan to spend a few extra days soaking up the culture of our very own Classic City. PN Local Ale A-Brewing
For More Information Athens Convention and Visitors Bureau Athens Welcome Center The Foundry Park Inn & Spa |
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clamoring college crowds, this intimate concert venue draws a decidedly sophisticated clientele. A 30-foot smoke stack at the entry tower welcomes patrons to the hip entertainment hotspot, which is reminiscent of the old Foundry with its brick and stucco décor. The back wall of the venue’s shadowy interior opens up to a cozy patio, making it possible to enjoy live music al fresco on a moderate evening, and I let the soothing sounds of the Thursday Night Jazz Series wash away my workweek woes my first night in town. Stop by on Tuesdays for the bluegrass series, which, like jazz nights, are free for guests and $3 for the public, or visit www.meltingpointathens.com for tickets to upcoming weekend concerts.
Sure, there’s more to Athens than college life, but a visit would be remiss without a taste of the local brew. Established in Athens in 2002, Terrapin Beer Company had its ales contract brewed in various locations for its first six years of existence, but February 2008 marked a homecoming of sorts for this craft beer. The new, 45,000-square-foot Terrapin Brewery, located on Newton Bridge Road in Athens, houses eight fermentation tanks, a bottling line, a gift shop and hospitality rooms. Drop by the brewery on Thursday nights or Saturdays for public tours, tastings and live music. Visit www.terrapinbeer.com for more information.