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Setting the Sails to St. Simons in Georgia’s Golden Isles The quaint island towns of our sister states seem to snag all the attention of resident beach lovers. The Southern Belle charm of South Carolina’s shores or the white sands of the Florida panhandle easily come to mind when travelers pack up their flip flops in search of an island retreat. But hidden under a thick canopy of live oaks drizzled with Spanish moss, Georgia’s Golden Isles await discovery. The four barrier islands of Sea Island, Jekyll Island, St. Simons Island and Little St. Simons Island that hug the Georgia coast are home to elite resorts and charming bungalows frequented not only by Georgians but by those all along the Atlantic seaboard. Some people relish a bevy of activity, such as dining out at local restaurants, listening to live music and perusing quaint shops, while others prefer a vacation to commune more with creatures on four legs instead of two. Whichever stirs your spirit, a trip to St. Simons offers the best of both. Spend a day or two on the “big” island, where you can weave in and out of charming shops and art galleries while dining from a variety of quirky local restaurants. Next, hop on a 15-minute ferry ride and be immersed into your “own private island” replete with bird watching, fishing, boating and delicious Southern cuisine with heaping spoonfuls of good ole’ fashioned Southern hospitality. Now, let’s go island hopping. St. Simons Island After traversing the spectacular bridge that leads to St. Simons, I arrived with a hearty appetite and began fishing around for a good meal in the island’s historic village. The wait was a bit too long at the famous Barbara Jean’s Restaurant and Bar for my rumbling stomach to tolerate, so I headed across the street to Moondoggies for some quick pizza. I discovered this was a favorite local hangout with a funky and joyous vibe, and I knew I had made a good introduction to the island the moment a waitress passed our table with one of their signature “deep dish” pizzas. What is particularly charming about the island is that it feels like home. There is a lived-in vibe that is often missing from island resort communities with a more snowbird population. Here the shady oaks never lose their foliage, so St. Simons retains its charm all year long. Perhaps that is one of the reasons Money magazine named the isle “One of the Best Places to Retire.” Well, that and its ridiculously low taxes, which, one resident informed me, are due to the fact that the county’s chief residents were trees who thankfully required no schools nor roads. The island’s signature St. Simons Trolley departing from the village pier takes guests on a 90-minute, 20-mile tour of the island. While aboard a 1930’s antique trolley, guests learn about the area’s rich 400-year history, including the touching story of friendship between a wealthy planter’s son Henry and Neptune, the family’s slave. Cherished boyhood friends, Neptune followed his friend to the bloody battlefield of the Civil War. When Henry was killed in battle, Neptune charged the battlefield to retrieve his friend’s body and later returned his remains to his grieving family. Today, the island’s park by the sea bears his name and is a lively hotspot for families with children in tow.
As for where to rest your sun hat, there are a variety of accommodations to suit every taste, from the luxurious King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort to cozy bed and breakfasts. I stayed at the charming Village Inn and Pub, located within easy walking distance to the island’s historic district full of shops and one-of-a-kindeateries. Each room is named after a famous person from the island and displays a plaque detailing their memorable deeds, so you can learn a bit of local history while brushing your teeth. And thanks to the hotel’s charming courtyard complete with a pool and bustling popular pub with a mahogany bar imported from England and its signature Wild Orchid martini, a stay here is both lively and quaint while within steps to the heart of the village, beach and Neptune Park. The family-friendly beach offers calm waves and a long coastal shelf without steep drop-offs, making it a particularly popular oceanic playground for families with small children. In the summer, you’ll discover locals and tourists alike pack up their picnic baskets and head to the St. Simons Lighthouse on Sunday nights for Jazz in the Park. I had heard about Barbara Jean’s world-famous crab cakes, so I couldn’t dare leave for Little St. Simons without sampling the local favorite. You may have heard of the eatery, as there are locations in South Carolina and Florida; however, this is the originalBarbara Jean’s so you will be sure to taste a bit of history along with the crab. Few restaurants make my mouth water simply by recalling my meal, but Barbara Jean’s whips up some of the finest Southern food I’ve had the pleasure of tasting. First, even if you are counting carbs, I must insist you dip your hand in the breadbasket. Barbara Jean’s pumpkin bread and sweet jalapeno cornbread might just put your mama’s to shame. Next, the she-crab soup, which is “sweet, creamy and full of crab with a little bite!” is sure to make your taste buds do the salsa. Just like ordering your favorite barbecue platter, Barbara’s world-famous crab cakes are available in a variety of options. Those crab cakes may have made her famous, but her “chocolate stuff” dessert has made her a legend. This indescribably sinful dessert takes a brownie sundae to euphoric levels. In actuality it’s too gooey to be a brownie, and the best way I can describe it is if your grandma poured chocolate cake batter into a bowl warmed it to perfection and then smothered it with ice cream and whipped cream. Can’t wait until your trip to St. Simons to sample her classic dishes? Check online at www.barbarajeans.com to order your favorites, which will be shipped fresh on next-day air.
In 1908, a representative from Eagle Pencil Company purchased Little St. Simons Island because he thought he had found a goldmine. Well, at least for a pencil maker. The forest of cedar trees thatcovered the land would surely be an asset to the company. Upon closer inspection, he was bitterly disappointed to discover the trees were too worn from salt and wind to be used in making pencils. When the Eagle Pencil Company owner Philip Berolzheimer came to survey the landscape for selling, he immediately fell in love with the place and decided to create a family retreat on its marsh-lined shores. Soon after, Berolzheimer invited his hunting buddies down from New York to enjoy the natural paradise he had found. Known as the “Eight Bandits,” the men would spend weeks hunting, fishing and playing parlor games in the hunting lodge. In 1979, the family decided to open their private island to the public, and theycurrently welcome day visitors as well as overnight stays for up to 30 guests. The lodge, listed in the book “1,000 Places to See Before You Die,” is completely all-inclusive and offers tasty meals, snacks and beverages as well as unlimited use of island’s guided naturalist tours andrecreational gear, which includes bikes, binoculars and fishing poles. Kayaks, canoes and motorized skiffs are also available to navigate the labyrinth of waterways and come with some helpful instruction and a walkie-talkie in case you need any assistance on your journey. When I stepped off the ferry onto this 10,000-acre rustic isle we were warmly welcomed by the staff and taken directly to the Hunting Lodge, which is decorated in Berolzheimer family heirlooms including the “ones that didn’t get away,” such as a 7-foot-long alligator. A plate of cookies await snacking and you can grab your choice of beer out of the cooler on the porch, making a visit here feel like you’ve just stepped into your mom’s kitchen and then headed to the veranda for a cold one. We had the pleasure of staying in the River Lodge, which may just have the prettiest view of the river marsh on the whole island. The lodge includes four separate rooms and one common area with a wood fireplace and comfy sofas for chatting, not to mention a fridge stocked with drinks and a bounty of board games and books as well as my favorite — a screened-in porch with a hammock. A bevy of bug sprays rest outside the front door, and are a must on your nature hikes, especially in the heat of summer. What surprised me the most was the fact that we did not have a room key, which truly emphasized the family-like feel of the island. We quickly met our roomies, a mother and daughter duo who have been coming to the island for more than 14 years and seemed as giddy as schoolgirls with each day’s adventures. Soon we heard the bell ringing at the Hunting Lodge just a short walk away, and we knew a tasty Low Country lunch was awaiting our arrival. Second to the natural world, the next best thing about staying at Little St. Simons Island is the food and conversation. Fresh seafood simmers on your plate and friendly naturalists will gladly answer your questions, staff will make you feel as if you are part of the family and fellow guests seem eager to share their stories. Before I could even pass the pasta salad, the lunch discussion quickly turned into a game of I-Spy detailing the menagerie of animals spotted that afternoon on hikes and bike rides as well as beach- and pond-excursions. From “Norm” the alligator to a pod of dolphins and an enormous Pileated woodpecker (the real-life model for “Woody the Woodpecker”) each guest could barely contain their excitement about their newfounddiscoveries and shared them with strangers as if they were life-long friends. My hunger was more thansatisfied but my appetite for adventure wasravenous. We began with a bike ride along the many paths available on the island and were treated to a variety of birds and even an armadillo that scurried past us into the brush. Next, we were off on a naturalist tour to the 7-mile pristine beach ripe with a bushel of seashells and sand dollars. It’s worth noting that with only a maximum of 30 guests and limited day-trippers, you truly can feel as though you are one with the sea. Then we were off to Norm’s Pond for a peek through a bird blind to spot nesting birds and the pond’s famous resident — Norm the alligator. We were also fortunate that island naturalists keep track of the American eagle’s nests that inhabit the cedar trees and happily observed two eaglets in their nest from a telescope, of course, so as not to disturb their peaceful home. As the day came to a close, I drifted onto the deck of our River Lodge, gazing through the gauze of Spanish moss to the river marsh that lay stretched out before me as a choir of birds sang from the branches. I ambled to the hammock and gently began to rock to nature’s harmonious rhythm. As I gently drifted off to sleep, I had to smile. It’s nice to have your own private island, even if it’s just for a day or two. PN For more information
The Lodge on Little St. Simons Island St. Simons Island The Original Barbara Jeans Village Inn and Pub |
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Islands in the Sun
Actually, the island is ripe with true stories as dramatic as any fiction novel. St. Simons is home to Bloody Marsh, the site of the famous 1742 battle between the English and the Spanish, a decisive battle on the future of the Southern colonies. And at the beautiful Christ Church deep in the heart of the island rests a haunting love story of a minister and the promise he made to his dying wife. If you don’t take the trolley tour, be sure to arrive at the grounds around 2 p.m., when the picturesque church is opened for tours.
Little St. Simon’s Island